Day one: Met Shannon at the trailhead parking on Haskell Rd. As we were getting
ready another vehicle pulled in with six other hikers. The weather for the next
few days was not favorable, after that the forecast is too far to predict. All
geared up, we set out along the NPT towards Spruce Lake. Today would be about
ten miles. The trail here is quite familiar to me yet I always seem to
rediscover its less obvious features which were lost in my memory. Small
drainages, large rocks, obscure side paths, etc... A lot of past memories come
back vividly, of meeting people on the trail and other experiences from past
adventures. So far the weather was perfect. Not too hot, nor rainy. We played
leap frog with the other group a couple times. Seemed like more, but it was
really one group and a solo thru- hiker. Some of them were going all the way to
Placid for their 30th anniversary, the others were hiking with them to Wakely. I
offered some hints as to nice places along the way and mentioned the flooded
section just north of the Carry lean-to.We made decent time and arrived at
Spruce Lake #2 by early afternoon. There were two guys who had hiked in for the
day and were just leaving. The lean-to was mostly clean. Some plastic spice jars
on the floor had been chewed on, and a few cans of chef boyardee on the shelf. I
ate my first late lunch, set up camp and gathered firewood. Our packs were a tad
heavy carrying six days worth of food. Since we were coming back this way in two
days, we would secure a bear caninister with our food off trail for the second
half of our trip. Made a small fire to dispel the bugs. On it we poured the
oregano and garlic powder from the containers to get rid of them.Amde a nice
smelling campfire. We were both in bed before the sun went down.
Day two: Since we had been expecting rain, and didn't get any I figured we
were ahead of the curve already for the trip. No complaints here. Sicne we had
gone to bed early, arising with the sun still allowed for a lot of sleep. We
didn't need to rush either as today was only another ten miles or so. Nearby
we hid our bear canister and continued North on the NPT. At Sampson Bog we
passe by the hikers from the previous day. We chatted a bit and crossed the
waterfall without the bridge with ease. Not long later we stopped for a snack
and they caught up with us. One of the older women mentioned she was worried
about the flooded section and had considered turning back. We hiked with them
a short while as I re-assured her it was not as bad as she thought. Just not
fun. I said I would have felt extremely guilty had she turned around. A few
others had mentioned to Shannon the concern from this woman as well. Again we
found ourselves ahead of the group. Took a long lunch break at South Lake. A
southbound hiker was swimming near the bridge just up the trail. The bridge
here is beginning to show some wear. Still structurally sound, but will need
some maintenance in the near future. This would not be a fun crossing without
a bridge.
As we passed by the side trail to West Lake Shannon marvelled at the sign. I
had forgotten about it. We signed in at the register near the old ranger
station and french louies fireplace. The reroute trail from many years ago had
been quite a mess. Due to all the dry weather it was quite easy. Passing by
Mud Lake I remembered last year's shorelinme search for the old campsite to no
avail. A few blowdowns in the area are tough to duck under. Found an almost
brand new hat on one of them. I picked it up figuring it was part of the
groups ahead of us. We caught up with them at the bridge over Mud Creek. They
said the hat was not their's but maybe the southbound hiker. We said we were
heading to Cedar #3 lean-to, they said they were considering either #1 or #2.
I told them #2 (Beaver Pond) was the nicer option. When we arrived at the
fisherman's lean-to we found it surprisingly empty. It was early still though.
We set up camp and I read the log book. A few entries mentioned how nice the
privy was; Shannon disagreed vehemently. As it was early we put togther day
packs and hiked back up the trail to the NPT and then took a bearing to French
Louie's cave. It had been a few years and I have never come at it from this
angle. A few herd paths going in the approximnate direction made travel a wee
bit easier. As we began the up hill portion something didn't feel right even
though I was now looking at my compass more diligently. We paused and I
realized we were on the wrong upslop of the rise. I must have gone right past
it and was now going up the wrong side of the hill. Fortunately we weren't
lost, just not where we wanted to be. This side of the hill had quite a few
large boulders which makes following the cvontour around difficult. A few
steep sections to drop through. Both fun and annoying at the same time. As we
came around the correct side, the sky changed and a few drops of rain began.
We cozied up near a gaint rock which provided enough shelter for Shannon to
put on her pack cover. Not wanted to fuss around in the rain looking for the
cave, I took a bearing back to our starting point. The rain was just a few
drops and the terrain was looking more familiar. I said, let's just bend
around a little farther to look. We did this twice and sure enough there was
the cave. I pinned a waypoint on my phone to share with Andy as I never had
the exact coordinates. Shannon took some photos. A shot a bearing back and
followed it more closely this time ignoring the herd paths. Hit the NPT six
feet from where we started. Trust the compass.
Back at camp I took a swim as I was a bit dirty after two days of hiking
including the short bushwhack. The water felt great. Made a nice dinner of
tortelinni with pesto sauce. I put in some of my lunch pepperoni. Will have to
have this one again. Aside from the small sprinkle atop cobble hill (the real
one) we have had perfect weather. Shannon climbed into bed early. I ribbed her
a bit for it, and 5 minutes later also climbed into my bag.
Day 3. Was a little cooler last night. No complaints. After breakfast we
decided to finish the french Louie loop instead of back tracking. This would
make today significantly longer by almost 60%. With very light packs we
figured it was not a problem. We set out and had a couple miles of nice
hiking. Soon the rains came. Not just a little rain, but buckets. Last time I
saw rain like this was when Andy and I had camped near Wakely. I had to hike
without my glasses as the water was too much. The rain stopped abrubtly and
the sun came out. A little bird chirped moments before hinting at he
possibility. I was not looking forward to crossinbg the funhouse bridge with
the rain like that. The middle section is at a 45 degree angle and with rain
probably not very safe. With the sun, it had dried mostly when we got to it.
We got to hike almost dry to the Pillsbury lean-to where we had lunch. The sun
was out drying off our packs. Noisey Ridge across the lake started to live up
to its name. Clouds were low over the ridge and the sound of rain pouring over
the forest could be heard rumbling. We were finished with lunch so we headed
back to the trail hoping the westerly winds would push the system past us. It
didn't and minutes after getting back on the trail the thunderous rains we
heard over Noisey Ridge were soon upon us. Shannon's pace quickened. She later
joked she was "trying to outrun it". Again my glasses were off. Due to
Shannon's pace we arrived at Sampson Lake in about an hour. The rains subsided
for the most part which meant I could now wear my glasses again. With two
miles left to the next junction and half our daily miles behind us we were
making decent time. As we hiked towards the NPT my mind wandered to whether
Dan would be waiting for us, or we would arrive before him. He was hiking with
Kristi the last few days in the Pharaoh Lakes region and planned to meet us at
Spruce #1. A short break at the junction, then back on the trail we hiked the
previous day. Momemts later two thru hikers came by. For the rains we just
experienced they were in good spirits. We chatted a bit about their next few
miles and inquired as to their planned destination. They said the tent site at
Mud Lake. I told them I did not think that site exists having looked for it
many times. Not to mention with these storms searching for a not so obvious
tent site would certainly sour their trip. I gave them information about the
lean-tos and sites a mile before it and recommended a couple. They had spent
the night at Fall Stream and I suppose were looking to avoid lean-to areas, I
hope they heeded my advice.
Over the years the trail maintainers for this section of the NPT have put in a
lot of time construction bog bridges over the wettest sections. The logs wwere
slippery due to the rain, the rocks were not much better. Shannon had already
slipped on the logs and I on the rocks rolling my ankle. Hoping to not have it
too sore in the morning. Just after Spruce #3 we gathered up our bear canister
and carried it to Spruce #2 to pack them for the last eight tenths of a mile.
Shannon also took a couple of the chef boyardees to have for dinner. As we
approached Spruce #1 I saw a man heading towards the lean-to with an armful of
wood. I called out, "hey Dan-O". He had arrived at the lean-to about an hour
before. He was surprised we weren't there yet, but figured I said I would be
there. Since Shannon and I were crashing in the lean-to, Dan set up his tent
nearby. Not long after the rains came again. Another torrential downpour. All
the wood in the area had been soaked so Dan was waiting for me to do the fire.
I was not feeling like it, so he used the torch to get it all going. Took a
bit of time but soon he had enough to cook his dinner. Using the fire, he
dried out some wood and stashed it under the lean-to. Not being very hungry I
had a small cup of soup. 3 days in and I had already skipped two dinner
entrees. We stayed up later than usual, might have even made it to 9pm. It
rained all night long.
Day 4. Up with the sun, well daylight. Sun was not shining. Everything was wet
even the air. Dan had stashed a bit of dry wood but I wanted to test myself. I
gathered wood from the soaking wet forest. I found a dead birch tree which I
stripped off some bark, and a downed spruce from which I gathered some fine
twigs. I made a base with some dry punky wood froma stump and built the fire.
With enough small stuff to dry the bigger stuff I got the fire going using a
single match. Is always good to practice for when I really need it. With the
fire now going strong I heated some water for coffee. Dan and Shannon were now
up. It wasn't raining but the air was still wet. Then it started raining
again. Then it stopped. Then more rain. Basically this was the entire day on
and off rain. Dan went fishing while Shannon and I rested after yesterday's
long day. During one of the breaks in the rain I hiked back to Spruce #2 to
check out a side trail and pick up the last can of chef boyardee. Dan returned
with a single fish which did not survive being hooked otherwise he would have
releaased it. He had the fish as a snack, I made myself some stroganoff and we
went to bed.
Day 5. Dan wanted to check out a trout pond a copuple miles away and I wanted
to check out a section of the outlet river from a failed bushwhack attempt
years ago. I found a 1903 map which showed a trail to my desired location. I
had no delusions this trail would still exist at all. Looking at the map we
determined there was not way for us to bushwhack together and then break off,
so we split up. Dan went to the trout pond and Shanon joined me on my off
trail adventure. We paddled the glassy surface of the lake to the far corner
where the old map showed the trail. Shannon tried taking photos of the newts
in the water. With the canoe stowed on the far shore, we donned our day packs.
Even though it was not raining we put on rain pants due to the wet underbrush.
The old trail followed a generally straight bearing up to the shoulder of
Spruce Lake Mtn. I was slightly concerned about our path as the map showed it
running right through a marshy area. With the compass calibrated to the
correct bearing we headed off into the brush. I was careful to follow the
bearing after the ordeal the other day. A lot of false drainages heading in
almost the right direction could easily get me off track here. First up and
over a small rise and then the marshy area. I was expecting it to be alot
larger. A large step over the creek running through it and we were back in a
mossy spruce forest. Another climb ot the shoulder and shot another bearing
which would eventually bring us to the river. The side of the mtn was quite
rocky and travel was not that easy on the downslope. We did cross a very nice
drainage with good water. As we continued down the river would be joining us.
I could hear some rapids just off our bearing. Evetually I broke off the
bearing and headed striaght to the water. We were well east of our desired
spot on the river but the sound of the rapids was like s siren call to me. We
had some lunch on the rocks and then headed downstream. A stillwater section
came into view but the edge of the river was brushy. We ducked back into the
woods to go around the obstacle and were soon on the other side of the
stillwater. It was too small to be our target. I said I wanted to head
downstream for another 20 minutes. Back in the woods and through some dense
spruce for a short while and then back into hardwoods and witchopple. Then the
true stillwater target appeared. Looked just as I though from scouting the
aerial photos. We spotted an old coffee pot in the woods but no discernible
place to camp. The large marshy section between the forest and the river's
edge was not to bad to walk through so we opted for that. There were
peninsulas of forest poking into the marsh. I kept setting my target to each
of these. None proved to have a good view. I saw an eagle fly from one of the
trees. Eventually on the last one, I could see the edge of the river as it
made a northerly bend. It had only taken 5 minutes to cross the last marshy
section so I told Shannon I just needed to get to that spot. So we trudged off
through the marsh to the river's edge. Finally, I had made ot to the spot I
had seen on the map and in the aerial photos. There was a great view looking
down river with one of the Twin Mountains in the background. We took some
photos and then with the time check we needed to start heading back. I had
wanted to explore more here but it will have to wait for another time.
We headed back through the marsh. Following our tracks wasn't so bad but when
we went around the peninsulas the grasses were tall and moving through them
just sapped our energy. we could hardly wait to get back into the forest
without the drag of the grasses and bushes. I reversed my bearing knwoing we
would be taking a slightly different route back due me turning off the bearing
to the sound of the river earlier. While following this bearing travel was
easy. At times it felt like a trail but likely just wishful thinking.
Regardless, the direction of travel had us moving through easy terrain even as
we gained elevation up to the shoulder of the mountain. This route had us
slightly more west and we passed by a nice cliff face. At the shoulder I
adjusted the bearing to match the change in the "trail" as we did on our way
to the river. As we approached the swampy section it looked much larger than
it did the other way. Looking at the map, the trail was supposed to go right
through the center. I wondered if earlier we had just hit a small arm of it
and got lucky. Steppoing into the spongy mass the grasses here exacerbated our
weariness. I knew we were just a tad west from where we crossed before so I
headed to that edge of the swamp. Ducking intot he woods for abut and then out
to he small section of swmp. We did not see the exact spot we crossed earlier
but it must have been close. Up and obver the hill and back to Spruce Lake was
all that was left. Not wanting to walk right past the lake on the side of a
ridge, I cheated a bit to the east. At one point Shannon realized she lost the
rain cover to her pack. We headed back up the hill for a few hundred yards
looking for it. She could not recall the last time it was on her pack. We felt
bad leaving it in the woods. Soon the lake was in view and because I had
cheated east we were east of our target. Shannon waited here while I followed
the shoreline to the canoe and paddled to where she awaited. The winds had
picked up a bit so the lake was not glass like earlier but still an easy
paddle back to camp. It was now dinner time. Shannon got the fire going while
I cleaned myself up at the water. I commented how refreshing it was so Shannon
also decided to go. We were just finishing eating when Dan arrived. We figured
he would be back after us as he was planning on fishing the pond. He caught a
few fish and prepared then for his dinner. We shared the details of our
adventures with each other and by the time we went to bed it was close to ten.
What a great day.
Day 6 was just packing up and heading back. We hiked with Dan for about 2
miles until the junction to his trailhead and we continued on to ours for
another 7 miles. At the cars we cleaned up and heasded home. When I stopped
for gas I texted Justin the photo of the stillwater to see if he could the
location. I should not have been surprised he got it on the first try. Maybe
he and I will head back there and do some more exploring.