Day 1 Wednesday
After the "bat incident", I checked with Emily to see if she wanted me to stay home another day. She said "no", and semi-jokingly "but if another bat got in the house this might be your last". I figured I was safe, how often do bats get in the house. Driving to the trailhead was on & off rain. YTrails are expected to be wet. This has been a really wet summer overall to begin with. While stopped for gar, I called Emily to see how she was regarding the bat incident. We talked for a bit with me re-assurring her that none of us are getting rabies just because a bat flew into the house.
I took it slow down the dirt road into the Perkins Clearing Easement. Last time I was here the final stretch on Old Military Road was washed out. They did a very nice job repairing it with new culverts and stone. I passed a small group of guys backpacking up the road. they appeared to be Scouts. At the trailhead there was another group having lunch, not sure if they were heading in or out. I loaded up my pack with 5 days worth of food and started down the trail. I had forgotten how rocky this old roadway was. I usually come in from the North. A couple passed by as they were going towards the parking lot. They were drenched. Probably caught that morning thunderstorm. They mentioned the re-routes needed re-routing. Probably in reference to the section of the NPT just East of the old ranger station on West Lake.
As I made the turn at the the French Louie Trail I recalled my moose encounter from a few years ago. I was not in a rush as my destination was Sampson Lake only 6 miles from the car.. Like usual I kept my eyes peeled for the old jeep trails which traversed the area as recently as the 1970s. Not much left now. Perhaps some day I will spend the time to really explore them and their destinations. As I neared the beaver dam/pond I saw a group ahead of me. I clicked my poles together to make some noice so I would not startle them as I approached. I soon saw why they were stopped. The beaver dam area was now flooded. They were waiting for their "guides" who were looking for an alternative route. They returned shortly, I told the group the trail was going to be wet and based on their route for the next three days, this would be just one of the flooded areas to content with. I receommended to "embrace the suck" and started walking right into the mess. Calf deep at the most, so not too bad.
The Pillsbury lean-to was jsut after the flooded part, so I stopped there to wring out my socks and have lunch. The group arrived soon after. They were from Colgate, on a freshman summer orientation adventure. Their guides were juniors from Colgate. We all talked for a while before I headed to Sampson. They had a few different orientation adventures to choose from for their (optional) trip. Backpacking, canoeing, day hikes w/base camping. What an awesome opportunity.
I continued on noting the Whitney Trail is still mostly obscured (nice!). I slipped on a wet rock and although I did not fall, I may have pulled something. Maybe if I just rub some dirt on it and walk it off. The trail was like a stream for quite a bit of it. Close to Sampson, I spotted an open area just off the trail, so I decided to check it out. A small grassy area with a large firepit like what was built in front of the lean-tos with concrete etc... A trail continued South and West towards the Lake. As I followed it it became apparent this was the old trail to the lean-to as shown on the maps. The trail was clear, perhaps kept open by the fisherman.
I set up camp at the lean-to with minutes to spare before the sky opened up. Just a brief shower after which I fished a little. Made a smudge fire and read the shelter log. Step two followed by a small dinner. Watched the sunset down by the rocks with the resident snake as a companion. he did not seem to care about me. I did make it to hiker midnight before I turned in.
Day 2 Thursday
Tried my best to sleep in but it just wasn't happening. Since it was early, I didn't make or eat breakfast. This is customary for me especially on solo trips. After packing up, I headed straight up the hill behind the lean-to to catch the trail instead of backtracking a bit. Back on the main trail more mud and muck. As I neared the NPT junction I ran into another hiker doing the loop. Apparently I had parked right next to him. We chatted a bit about the NPT. He was doing the trail earlier in the year, but bailed just before the flood storms hit.
I took a short pause at he bridge over W.Can Creek and as always reminisced about the times I crossed without the bridge due to Irene. Took a longer break at the lean-to and ate my dinner leftovers. Read the log book and recorded my own entry. After a short while I got antsy again to hike so off I went. On my way to West Lake, I took the short detour to check out the newly renovated South Lake lean-to. Looks great although I am not too sure about the location on the hill, that might need some steps built into it. Took another long break at West Lake. Aired out my feet and made some coffee. Always a great view here. A toss up between here and Cold River 3 as to which is best. This lean-to roof is the next one slated for a repair. On the shelf was an old film canister. Inside was a roll of ektachrome film which has seen better days. I wondered if this was found during the South Lake lean-to repair and then left here? I will carry it out and see if it is possible to get this old film developed.
I was signing in at the trail register when I heard some voices coming down the trail. Soon the Colgate crew was there. They were in good spirits obviously enjoying their trip so far. One asked me about "my section" so I described where it was and about how long until they would traverse it. She also commented on the mud they walked through for the day and repeated the phrase "embrace the suck". I smiled in agreement. We parted ways as they continued on the NPT and into the next muddiest few miles before it became a nice open dry-ish trail. I headed west towards Brooktrout Lake. "See you on the trail" she called out to which I responded in kind. She must have just read my entry at one of the lean-tos and used the line from my signature.
Took another short break at West lake #2 to collect some firewood, kindling and tinder in preparation for a night here later. Big rains are expected the next few days and it would be easier to have this dry wood available either for me or whomever ends up here. I forgot how long the trail was along West Lake before it turned up towards Brooktrout. Easy enough, just longer than it would seem. I checked out the campsite at the end of the lake and spent a few minutes looking for a boat. Some decent hiding spots, but no canoe. Only a short mile left to Brooktrout where I will have a late lunch and relax.
Arrived to an empty lean-to. As I removed my pack I caught the smell of weed inside the lean-to. I went to gather firewood, made a fire and had some lunch. The canoe was full of water, so I emptied it and turned it over so it would not gather more. I had considered taking it out for spin, but went back to the lean-to instead. Every time I poke my head into the lean-to I catch a whiff of the weed.I chuckle recalling the youtuber, "Rank King" taste testing the different beers and commenting each time he sipped a Pabst "yep, tastes like weed". I chilled at the lean-to and gathered more firewood. I was not motivated to take out the canoe and fish. The rocks were nice enough to sit on by lake.
Approaching 5pm the sky turned from just partial clouds to overcast while the temp dropped; winds also picked up. A sure sign of the weather changing and the rains moving in. Glad I had already procured plenty of wood for the evening and morning. I pile up some of the wetter wood onto the fire to keep it smoldering and to begin the drying process. Sat back into the lean-to; yep smells like weed. Shortly thereafter the rains came, then out came the sun.
I had made dinner and was enjoying a beverage down by the lake when I heard some noise in the woods around the bend. I waited quitely and soon Keith arrived with his Hornbeck canoe overhead. He was drenched. I moved my gear to one side of the lean-to to give him some extra room. He took a break and then set out into the lake for a paddle. He had carried it in 5 miles for this purpose and didn't want the effort to go to waste. The clouds hinted at a nice sunset, but the colors dissipated early. I did manage an ok photo of Keith out in the canoe. Stayed up a bit later due to the company but still in bed around 9pm.
Day 3 Fri Aug 18th
Boy the rains sure came over night. Thunder too in the distance. During the night I would hear the rains drumming on the canoe down by the lake. I slept ok on the slanted lean-to floor. In the morning the rains would be off and on. Keith went to paddle again while I packed up. He was staying another night but said he might do a day trip to West. We might run into each other again but neither of us were set in our plans for the next three days.
Wow the trail from Brooktrout to West was underwater. I was basically hiking down a stream bed. As I passed the actual streams and drainages, they were gushing waterfalls. A couple were tricky to cross. being solo I was careful to not try to walk across wet logs. I was already wet, so stepping into deeper water was not that big of a deal, but falling could be. From the campsite at West to the lean-to was relatively dry being on higher ground. I did take a short detour around a marsh looking for any signs of a camp shown on the old maps. No signs but defnitely some neat places to camp if one wanted to be well away from the lake and trail. As I neared the lean-to more springs eminated from the hillside which made the only real wet spots. The piped spring near the lean-to was flowing nicely semi-flooding the trail.
I spent the day at the lean-to relaxing, collecting firewood and digging out some drainages along the trail starting near the spring. The sun was trying to cut through the clouds all day and a few times the sky would just darken followed by a short rain entertaining us woods dwellers with a weather waltz. Having finished dinner and enjoying a PBR by the fire, the sky opened up with another shower. I wonder how long this would last before the sun returned. I am all set for the night with wood and water regardless. The only difference will be trail conditions tomorrow.
Day 4 (Saturday 8/9)
Awoke at my normal early time, but forced myself back to sleep. Regardless of which direction I head today, I still had plenty of time. An NCT hiker came by at 7:30 am heading in the direction of Btrout. I made myself a large cup of coffee but skipped eating. I packed lunch and a snack in my day bag at the top of my pack for easy access. Temp was 51deg, the woods were wet and drippy.
I decided upon some off trail exploring (just a little) to see if a reroute around the NPT mudfest was even a possibility. Looking at the map, I figured to head east at the bridge following the stream before turning S. to regain the NPT. Worst case I could stay east a contour above the NPT and hit it where it turns N near Mud Lake. The woods were quite thick at the bridge. I probably should have taken the bearing from the lean-to and stayed in the open hardwoods away from the creek, but I was already this far so I pushed on. It eventually opened up a bit and was easy going. When I turned S. I ran into some cleared trail that led right to the NPT just past the extended beaver pond. The cleared part had left many 3-6inch high "stumps" fromn the cut saplings. These were a danger to walk through, I had to stare at the ground for almost all of it. The rest of the pond came into view on my right. I could see where the "trail" existed in the pond with a marker on a small tree right in the middle.
The next portion was the rocky muddy part not so different from the rest of the NPT in parts. I am sure had I stayed in the hardwoods, I could avoid this too. This part is only really bad after a rain, like we have had the past few days. So yeah, it sucked. I spent a good half hour looking for the old campsite near Mud Lake. I was just about ready to give it up and decided to take one last look at a slightly different spot. I found two potentially old firepits, and the remains of a cut telephone pole. I am sure the pole was from when they ran a line to the ranger station at West Lake. I had seen a few before still standing years ago, but have not seen them since. Later on along the trail near where I had seen them in the past, some steps were put into the trail at a steep section using what appears to be old telephone poles.
Another hiker came along heading the opposite direction. We chatted a bit. His name is Jim and he lives rather close to me. He had started in Durant and was going all the way to Northville. He has hiked the NPT before with his wife in 2011. Jim is also a lean-to adopter in the Pharaoh Lakes region. We exchanged trail condition intel before we parted ways. I soon was passing by King and Cat ponds remembering the time Dan and I searched them for canoes. After a small climb, I was on what I call the "long straight" to Cedar #3; just a section of trail that doesn't turn much. The natural rock cliff wall on my left signalls to me that I am getting close to the junction. I skipped the Fishermans's lean-to and pressed on to Cedars #2 even knowing it had a higher likelyhood of being occupied. I figured a +1 would not put it over capacity and there was also plenty of open space nearby for a tarp set up if needed.
Filled up my water bottle at a trail side spring. These were all running well with the recent rains. The trail was still a soggy mess. Surprisingly #2 was void of people, still early though. I had a snack lunch of pepperoni & cheese. Took off my wet boots and socks. It was well past midday but the temp was still only 55deg with a hint of the sun trying to poke her way through. It was not to last unfortunately.
After my break, I started gathering wood. I went to my usually spot up the hill and found plenty of dead&down. While it was all damp, it was hardwood which meant the inside was dry. I stopped for a bit to read the shelter log, new from June with only a few entries some with larger groups of 8 and even a dozen. The Colgate group had spent the night here when I was at Brooktrout. As the afternoon rolled in it was odd not seeing others here, it was Saturday after all. The weather must have kept most people away. Perhaps by eveing other thru or section hikers will be by. I started the fire to dry out all the wet wood and let it smolder away until dinner.
I went down to the bridge and noticed the beaver dam under it was now quite large, really raising the level of the pond. Briefly considered tossing in a line. A couple hikers stopped by, Wyatt and Smiley. Both were hiking barefoot. They had come from Spruce Lake this morning. They dried out some gear by the fire and asked for recommendations for campsites, and other trail info. They were looking to add an extra day to their itinerary and were trying to see if their food supply was sufficient until their next re-supply. I offered for them to "go shopping" in my food bag since I was hiking out tomorrow and had skipped a number of meals. I held back my coffee and a couple granola bars to get me through the morning.
They mentioned they were protein starved, living off oatmeal and macaroni for the most part. They added my remaining cheese&pepperoni to their pasta dinner, and graciously accepted some of my dried meals. I gifted them one of my remaining beers as well. The sky cleared up enough to allow a view of the setting sun at the bridge over looking Beaver Pond. Hoping tomorrow would be a nice sunrise over Blue Ridge. As it got close to hiker midnight, I told the guys I would be probably be gone when they got up and would try to be quiet in the AM.
Day 5 Sunday
No entry.
(I must have simply packed up and hiked out).
P.S. This was the first time I saw the new "funhouse bridge" over Grassy Brook. Nice job.
