Day 1: Kalie & Carla were already at the parking lot when I arrived @9:55. The day was warming up, around 72F. Kalie&Carla are only staying until Wednesday so we signed in seperately in the trail register @ quarter after ten. The trail was only slightly muddier than usual surprisngly since the entirety of the Adirondacks was recently overwhelmed with rain. Many roads washed out and bridges destroyed. Some roads were still closed. We made quick time to the main trail junction where we paused briefly looking at the nearby campsite and the closed horse trail. On an old road now for almost the rest of the way to CR#3, The old roadway showed remnants of the rains running down it, cutting grooves and waves of debris. We were in no rush so we took it slow with a few short breaks. A longer break at the Calkins lean-tos for lunch. While resting, a gentleman and his 2 dogs came by. They were on a day hike to the lean-to and back.
Carla was off taking pictures of the flowers in the meadow and poking around down the trail towards the river. when she returned she asked which way the trail went. I said just past the bridge. She said she saw the bridge materials but there was no bridge. I replied it was broken and mostly down into the stream bed. She said there was no bridge, just a knee deep stream. Kalie and I were both a little confused and thought perhaps Carla was referring to the other stream. When we headed down the trail, indeed the old broken bridge was gone! The only remnants were the two steel girders used as supports which were down in the rocks. We surmised the bridge must have washed away in the river surge from the massive rains. We forded the river just upstream of the old bridge and continued up the old roadway. Along this path we could see the river had overflowed the banks and not just encroached onto the old road, but the nearby forest. The debris pushed into the woods was considerable and we were at least 8 feet above the current water level. This was some massive storm. The old roadway was considerably eroded as the river gouged out channels in it. Farther up a feeder stream passed under the road through a culvert. This culvert had been unearthed and discarded downstream. Amazing!
After the height of land, heading down the southern slope of the side hill the water damage was significantly less. We stopped again at the "coffee spot". An open viewing area of the Sewards Range where I stopped for coffee many years ago and will still pause and look everytime I pass by. There were ripe blueberries here too. The view had hazy skies accented by the wildfire smoke.
At the trail junction for Latham I mentioned the possibility of looking for a shortcut from here to CR#3 to avoid the upcoming flooded section. Perhaps tomorrow? The beaver swamp was gross, but not deep. Kalie kept her water shoes on for the remaining half mile to the lean-to; Carla and I switched back to our hiking boots. We arrived at CR#3 @4:30 perfect time for a step 2; I went with a PBR. Carla made an early dinner b/c she only had a snack at Calkins while I set up my hammock and Kalie her tent. A smudge fire was prepared even though the bugs were not that bad. It would make stoking it up later easier for cooking.
We hung out in the lean-to until about 9:30 when I finally called it quits. It was still very warm when we went to bed. Just below being uncomfortably warm so I eventually fell asleep.
Day 2: I awoke early having slept very well. Even so, I opted for some more.Finally arose at 6:30 and made some coffee. Over breakfast we planned out our day. Opting to check out the old trail to Pine Point. We headed downstream and forded the river just upstream of the old Shattuck bridge. I think I have an old photo of this bridge from almost 100 years ago.
At the junction with the NPT we headed SOBO. The trail to Pine Point was farther away than I remembered. It was well marked but very overgrown with a lot of blowdown. We were already soaked from the wet brush on the way to the river ford so it didn't make it any worse. After a series of blowdowns to content with we crossed a feeder stream. It was slow going. At this point Kalie opted to turn around and wait for us back at camp. The type 2 fun was not on her list for today. By this point I was committed to getting to Pine Point. Carla and I pressed on. The trail actually got a little better in regards to the bushiness but still a lot fo blowdown. A few tricky sections to navigate including a flooded spruce swamp. Closest to the river was all matted down from the river overflow and the foor tread was easily discernibler as the water had washed away all the debris on the path. While it was mostly a bushwhack, there were still some really pretty sections of river. On the other side we spotted what appeared to be rows of red pines? These were a staple of the CCC and I am aware of the CCC having done some work in this area I did not know if it included reforestation. I will have to look into it and possible make my way to that ridge sometime in the future.
About a mile before Pine Point we passed by a small grove of rather large cedars. Seemed like it would be a nice area to camp. We had lunch at Pine Point under the big white pine.
We did not stay long as the flies and mosquitoes were annoying. The way back to the NPT went much quicker. A combination fo the marked trail and our footprints. Fording the Cold River was a little more work as we angled upstream. BAck at the lean-to we cleaned up and relaxed. A few sounds of thunder in the distance? Not sure. So far we were winning with the weather; we expected today to be on/off rain all day. Hoping it isn't just a delay and tomorrow will still be nice. We did get a few sprinkles right after dinner but it didn't seem to last. Ok if it pours over night though.
Day 3: The temperature dropped a bit last night. Not cold, just a nice sleeping temperature under the quilt. I slept solid until 4am. Tried to get more to no avail. I finally headed over to the lean-to around 5:30. Carla was already packing up some stuff as she had a long drive to NH to make. Made some coffee and watched the river come to full light. I made a note to remember to track the sunrise here to find out exactly when it will rise straight out over the river view. Carla soon headed out and I was alone with the river until Kalie awoke. We ate breakfast and I cleaned up the firepit while she finished packing up. We were both on trail before 9am. I headed upstream and Kalie followed in Carlas footsteps back to the cars. I now had a few days of just me and the Cold River Country. No major plans.
I stopped at Big Eddy, the Seward Camp and explored around. I had brought the mini metal detector to try to located the buried cauldron with no luck. At Miller's Falls I took an short swim and had lunch. I also washed out my hiking clothes. A nice nap while they dried on the sunny rocks. At a little after 1pm I headed to Ouluska just 2 miles away. I would have a decent amount of time to read the shelter log. Gary (the previous adopter) had transcribed the book going back to the 1980s. I hope he kept copies in case the book ever is lost or destroyed. The two miles between Ouluska dn SeWard are very nice. Ironically in the 80's the log book described it as "the worst two miles on the NPT". Since then the trail had been rerouted to higher ground in many spots. A discerning eye can make out the old trail through the mucky areas and mud pit hell. It was an easy rock hop across Seward Brook earlier and according to the log book the bridge was washed out in the 80s too with many hikers complaining about it. I guess some things never change. Duck Hole must have been quite the party place as many entries commented that it was "not the place for solitude" and "very busy". Back then, people could drive all the way to Duck Hole. There were entries ffrom the "Case's 3rd through fifth thru hikes of the the NPT.
Much love and appreciation to Gary for all the years he spent upkeeping this and other lean-tos. Ouluska must have been his favorite as this was the one where he transcribed the books. IIRC, it was because of him all the lean-to now have log books. Many commenters oin the mid 80s complained about the Seward Lean-to. One called it the "Sewer" lean-to. It was one of the older ones with no floor and no front over hang. In 1989 it was re-habbed to its current design with the front sloping overhang and floor. These modifications are obvious add-ons.
About 5pm I started water for dinner. The smoke from the fire should keep away any bugs which decide to stop by in the early evening. So far the day has been relatively bug-free. Sunny and low 70s.
Wow! That ramen soup with the dried cabbage, carrots and jerky was quite good. Will need to remember that brand and flavor. "Sichuan Spicy Stewed Beef". It was just before 6pm and I began to wonder if I would see anyone else today. Only two beers left for the next four nights. I might get lucky with a resupply from George and Mike on Saturday at Duck Hole. Still leaves me one night short at least. Had one of them on the big rock overlooking the river.
After I cleaned up from dinner, Gabe, Jeff and Zack crossed the brook. Nice guys, hiking the NPT in Sections. They had seen my name in numerous log books along their journey. They had a lot of questions and I was happy to answer those that I could. Made it well past hiker midnite the guys to talk to.
Day 4: Lazy morning. Slept ok for being in the lean-to. Hammock is always more comfortable. Made some coffee and went back to the overlook rock. Two f the guys joined me. Great conversation. One of them was just stating out his teaching career in middle school (2nd career). The third guy joined us. He had not slept well. He had left his sleeping bag in his car and was making due with a liner only. Last night was the coolest night so far so I am sure he felt it. I finished (a late for me) breakfast afte they headed out. Their goal was Wanika Falls. Again I had no real plans for the day, just to poke around some old trails and Rondeaus hermitage a bit.
As I approached the hermitage, instead of making the turn I stayed straight along the river and came right up to the "Big Dam". I had never stopped here before since I was always just passing through. The log making the dam was immense and had been here for a long time. It made a very nice pool both above and below it. The hermitage is just above me on the little rise. The map shows an old trail continuing upstream, then corniering the swamp before swinging back North. If the trail was here it would have been just along the river bank and any remnants have sionce washed away. Just inside the woods was a lot of small dead spruce; very "pokey". Not fun walking through especially with a full pack. I cut back up the hill to the hermitage and I think I found the tree that both George and Bob told me about. Nothing special just a spot where someone had their ashes buried. I was then back on the NPT for a bit looking to explore some more spur trails. I took an obvious one which was definitely an old roadway. I had seen this path many times before. I thiought it might be the one heading toward Emmons, but it quickly swung back around to the hermitage. Must have been the secondary trail encircling the area shown on the old maps.
I spent some time trying to find the Petty Cutoff trail. I did not see any path, so I took a shot off trail towards a drainage and the next contour down to see if I could feel anything. For a short bit I thought I might have found something but it disappeared into a drainage and I could not pick it up again. I followed the drainage up and around hoping to find any trace. I gave up and headed up back to the NPT righ about where the two trees were groing in the rock. Nearby was tree w/wire Bob mentioned. No evedent path and it didn't match anything on my old map. I will have ask Bob again what was the significance of the wire. I continued ont he NPT and took a long break at the Mountain Pond drainage as it was nice and cool there. I was a little bummed I didn't find the cutoff, partly because I think I gave up a bit early. I should have just taken a bearing and headed to the river crossing instead of trying to find old trail remnants specifically.I figured I would now just head to Cold River #2 lean-to and figure out plans for the next few days there. Possibly the Northern lean-tos tomorrow? I will need to be at Duck Hole on Sat to meet George and Mike and the Northern L2s are only about 3 miles from Duck Hole. This afternoon the sky was changing between suna nd clouds, I wonder if a system is moving in. I have the lean-to in case in storms. And someone left a book, so I can read that if I get socked in. I have wood all prepped for today and tomorrow just in case. Now just relaxing. Perhaps I will check out the book.
I had skipped lunch since my dehydrated breakfast (eggs, potatoes, cheese and salsa) really packed a punch. Will need to remember that recipe.So now a late lunch/early dinner. Teriyaki noodles with jery and cabbage (next time remember shitake too). Hammock is all set up. Time for a step 2. Last one of the trip unless the guys hook me up tomorrow. Blue skies right now with the sun preparing for its setting. The river makes a strange echo inside the lean-to; sounds like someone is behind it running a jet boil stove. Have not seen anyone since the 3 guys this morning. The small fire will be my company for the evening.
Day 5: Woke up at 3am to thunderstorms. Big bright flashes and rolling thunder in the distance. No more rain when I awoke at 6:30. Another short day so will try to go back to sleep. Able to steal another hour. A quick water for coffee and organize my food.. Will be interesting to see how much extra I return with. I can easily get a weeks worth in the Ursack. The ferns and brush were soaked with the night's rain so I put on my rain pants. I checked out Cold River lean-to #1; a tree had fallen and punched a small hole in the roof. Another future lean2rescue fix unless the DEC just decommissions it as it is just across from CR#2 and both get little use.
Made another stop at the old "new" Duck Hole lean-to. The meadow is grown in making the only wau to the lean-to from behind it in the woods. Remembering my first time here before Irene finished off the dam. Ran into George on that trip. Ended up staying the night instead of going to Moose Pond. Also recollections of "the artist" on another thru hike. Made my way to the new "new" Duck Hole lean-to. It is much easier to just call it Roaring Brook as that is where it is located anyway. While putting up my bugnet in the lean-to a couple guys stopped for a brief snack. They are fast-packing the NPT. Their goal is a 4-day thru hike. I told them they just did the roughest patch. They were headed to Long Lake for the night. A solid 30 mile day.
Had some lunch with company from the sun and the birds. Wondering if the edge of the brook is a muddy mess like last time. As I pondered these thoughts a huge mouse made an appearance in the lean-to. he must eat well. The chance of rain today seems to have lessened. Turned out to be a beautiful day. even sitting near the lean-to was bug free. In the late afternoon a distant rumble of thunder far to the South interupted the quiet of the woods but stayed away. Just some rusting of the tree leaves and the gurgle of the brook below.
Made a fire with wet wood for dinner. Stacked it up high so the smoke would dry it all out. It was self sufficient for a while so I did not need to attend to it. It took some time, eventually I had a decent coal base and put on some water. Afterwards I put a burnt log atop the coals to dry it out. I did not realize at first the chunk was a piece of cedar. As it began to burn the scent gave it away. Was very pleasant. The wood I stacked near the fire was all dry, so I set it aside for the morning. Thoughts about the crew arrving tomorrow. They would be at Preston at this point. Not sure if they were planning on spending the night here tomorrow or just day-tripping it. If the latter I will re-think my plans for tomorrow night.
Day 6: I went to bed quite early, before it was even fully dark. The "Sleepy Bookshelf" always helps. A slight rain overnight but not much. Coffee and breakfast are done and I am all packed up except for the tarp. George said they planned on arriving later morning or noon depending on how late they arrive to Preston. Nice and cool 60* with overcast skies. I kept the fire smoldering in case it warmed up ebough for the bugs. All is quiet and peaceful this morning.
As the morning closed in on midday, I made plans in my head in case the guys did not make it. Also time and weather were variables. Just less than 5 miles to Camp 4 from here, plus the expected muddy beaver swamp mirroring the one on the western side of the loop. If I went to Camp 4, it would leave just over 6 miles to the car. Or 1.5 miles to CR#1 and leave the flooded section and ten miles for tomorrow. Just some things to consider in my decision making. A little bit of blue sky would occassionaly appear between the generally over cast sky. About 65* as the sun crested noon.
I sat on the "Duck Hole Island rock" where George often stashes his canoe. From here I could see the approach from Preston. As of 1 pm no sign of the guys. Possible something changed their plans. Perhaps the storms I had heard in the distance. My contigency plans had landed me at going to Camp 4 as the weather was favorable. Though I had visions of the flooded section being worse than it really was. I had imagined waist deep water and carrying my pack over my head but it was just knee deep and mostly water not much mud. There was slight breeze too which was nice. The old truck trail is in much better condition than the Calkins trail and only a few blowdowns.
The spring just before Camp 4 needs some attention. The drainage is all plugged up and the cistern is underwater and covered in leaves/muck. I did my best with my hiking pole but I am sure it made little difference. Approaching Camp 4, I scared up a decent size deer. Tracks and scat would then lead the way to Camp. No one else at Camp 4. Still a nice breeze so no need for a smudge fire, but I will need wood for dinner later.
I forgot how much I enjoy my dehydrated pasta dinners. So simple too. Had a few extra squares of dark chocolate for dessert. Water is boiled for tomorrow and cooling in the pot overnight. Not planning on coffee, just a "get up and go" morning. I know Emily will be pleased if I arrive home earlier in the day.
Day 7: Just get up and go. Back to the car in the later morning. Saw quite a few hikers on the way all were heading to climb the Seward Range. I ended up doing 42 miles over the course of the week. A lot of relaxing and probably a bunch more miles off trail looking for stuff. Suppose I could have done more exploring, perhaps next time. The woods aren't going anywhere any time soon. I did manage to add another 3 lean-tos to my total.
