In my quest to sleep in all the publically available lean-tos in NY as well as camp in each of the Wild Forest and Wilderness areas of the Adirondack I am able to visit new locations often. Some of them are very busy during the summer, so winter trips are the best time to take advantage. The downside is wintry conditions can be quite variable and little daylight.
My original plan was to camp at Taylor Pond as this was a busy place in summer with boat access from the campground. Due to its distance, I planned a stop along the way at a lean-to along the Raquette River. Dan and Shannon would join me. I picked up Shannon around 9am and let know Dan our ETA at the river. We drove past the parking area as it was snowed in and the DEC had yet to plow the lot which is often used by x-country skiers. Made plan B which was another lean-to along the way. We parked on the side of the road as the plows did not carve out much of the parking area. It was already past 1 pm and the sun sets early. The hike to Cooper Kiln Pond started off on an old lane which a snow machine had broken out. As it headed up hill it was still a bit tiring. The trail split and the hiking trail turned up hill which we would need to break. We had almost a 1000' of elevation to go. It was not easy. At least the last quarter mile was a 200' downhill section (which meant climbing it tomorrow AM). We arrived at the lean-to which was right on the edge of the pond. We dropped our gear and collected firewood in the waning day light. I dug out the fire pit retaining as much snow around it as possible as a wind shield. Fire and dinner was made. I ate my lunch since I did not eat it during the drive. It was windy all night which pushed snow into the lean-to creating a light covering of snow on our sleeping bags. Like usual I was up early. I hesitated re-starting the fire thinking we might just get going. But as the others awoke, it was decided to get a fire going to warm us up. Dan had given me a sachet of instant coffee from Vietnam. It was quite good. After the warming fire, some coffee etc... we packed up and headed back down the trail to the cars for our second part of the trip. .Of course we had to go up first.
Once we reached the height of land, the trail down to the cars went quickly. The broken out trail and the loss of elevation was not tiring at all. We loaded the cars and drove the 30 minutes to Taylor Pond. The first parking area was not plowed, so we continued to the campground. The main entrance had a small portion plowed out, so we parked there. Some adventurous souls had driven even farther down the access road. The ruts in the snow were deep, so obviously a high clearance vehicle. At the boat launch the truck which made the tracks was parked. Other tracks from a pull sled headed out to the pond. Shannon was nervous about being on ice so she took my map and was going to take the trail around the lake to the lean-to. Dan and I follwed the ice-fisherman's tracks. We could see his shanty far down the pond to where it narrows, not far from our destination. We were about half way dragging our own sleds when an angry Shannon appeared behind us. The trail was not marked, nor broken and seemed to turn away from the lake. She likes more marked trails to follow. She was made she had to come out onto the ice as this was not the plan. We said we were heading to the fisherman to talk and to see how thick the ice was. Scraping away the snow, we could see the opaque grayness so rather thick. She trudged on ahead and we followed. The fisherman was friendly and told us it was 8 inches thick here, but further ahead where the ice terrain shifted it was only 4 inches. The ice terrain change was due to the narrows where the waves from the wind made the ice uneven with sections breaking and re-freezing. We angled towards the shore. Shannon and I headed into the woods to catch the snowmobile trail which should be nearby and go straight to the lean-to. Dan stayed on the ice, but near shore. Shannon thinking the trail was righ near the water's edge pushed on ahead of me though some thick woods. I eventually tired of trying to follow her tracks and we turned up hill. 20 yards I hit the open lane which a snowmobile had broken out. I called to Shannon and she turned uphill to the trail. The lean-to was maybe 100 yards farther down the trail. Dan arrived a few minutes later.
We got busy collecting firewood without rushing since we had a few hours of daylight left. The stream nearby would work well for water instead of the constant melting of snow. It was already warmer here than it was at Cooper Kiln. This waas due to warming temps, as well as being at a lower elevation and not having icy-wind blowing right into the campsite. For dinner I had some ham from the butcher which I diced up and put into a store-bought italian dried pea soup mix. It was quite good. The ham was the perfect addition. I forgot to add the dried carrots I brought as they were in the bottom of the food bag. Because of the sled, I added a few extra beers to the weight which I shared with thr group. While it was warmer than at Cooper Kiln, it was still cold enough the beer would freeze when opened. The fire helped mitigate the beer slushies. Evening came and we stayed up as alte as we could. The string of white christmas lights I hung in the lean-to really work well to provide enough light for basic tasks without the need of a headlamp. I slept quite soundly and warm.
I re-started the fire easily as the ashes still had some coals. The birchbark began to smolder as I prepared the kindling. Soon I had a bright morning fire with the pot of water on. We did not have far to go to the next lean-to so it was not important that we pack up any time soon. As we packed up, we left the coals in the fire. The reason being that if someone fell through the ice, they would need to be able get a fire going easily. Between the buried coals, and the quick start kindling we left in the lean-to, this could potentially be lifesaving. Dan headed to the ice since his sled doesn't do well except on flat ground like icy lake. There was also some weak cell coverage out there and he wanted to send Kristy and Jen a msg. My sled is a little better, but all of them excel on the flat. The snowmobile trail would wind around the inlets and also include crossing one of them. So we would need to find a means to cross it. The next lean-to was only about 2 and a half miles along the snowmobile trail so we had a whole day to accomplish the feat.
The trail was easy going for about a 3/4 of a mile. Then the trail disappeared beyond some blowdown and the sled tracks turned around. We re-aquired the trail after at most a quarter mile. Soon a lean-to came into view. This was only a mile and half past the previous and well before the inlet. We took a short break. The lean-to was obviously fairly new. We poked our way down a small drainage to the water's edge to see if we could spot Dan. Last we saw him he was talking on the phone out on the ice and we were ahead of him. We could not see him around the bend. Shannon and I conversed about whther to make camp here and wait for Dan, or continue on. After a brief conversation we decided that Dan does not even know of this lean-to and unless he heads up into the woods here, would not see it. The plan was to meet at the other, so we should stick to the plan. This also means I will need to to return to Taylor Pond at some point since I orphaned this lean-to. (Later on I realized I did know about this lean-to which was one reason for planning a 4-night trip here, but I forgot about it).
The snowmobile trail was easy to follow to the inlet cove where it apparently crossed the ice. This was not a place to be testing the ice near the inlet. Looking towards the inlet it appeared a land bridge or beaver dam might be passable. Shannon led the way, but the ground became mushy. We headed back intot he woods after pushing through some thick growth. I pushed us to higher ground into the hardwoods where it was flatter and more open. The inlet creek appeared soon. It was a decent sized stream and took a while to determine a safe method to cross. Once across we side hilled in attempt to find the snowmobile trail again. It was not easy going and we did not find any signs of the trail. In hinddsight, I am not sure if it even exists here except out on the ice. We tried to not head out onto the peninsula b/c we would just have to come back out to get around the next cove. The woods were not easy going, mostly because as Shannon was trying to avoid blowdown to assist my travels with the sled behind me. What she did not realize is that 90 degree trurns around trees were even worse. I could go up and over blowdown, but the tight turns were extremely difficult. I again pushed us to higher ground and the more open woods. We crossed the next smaller inlet stream and were within a quarter mile of the next lean-to. Shannon said she spotted some paint on a tree. I said to hed towards it. Once I caught up to her location and looked at the map I could see the paint was the property line. We could use this as a bearing and then drop down to the water for the lean-to. We follwed (mostly) the paint for a short while and then I said to head towards the spruce near the pond. As we approached I spotted the lean-to about 100 yards to our left. When I caught up to Shannon I said to look left. She spotted the outhouse.
At the lean-to there was no sign of Dan. It was later than we expected. The first half of our mileage was easy, then it took almost the rest of the day to do the other half. We wondered whether Dan found the other lean-to and was waiting for us, or decided to follow our tracks ( I hoped not, as that way woul dbe even more difficult with his sled). I headed out on the ice. I brough a stout pole with me to push away the snow to see the ice and also as a tool in case the ice broke. The other lean-to was beyond two coves to our South, with an island in the way. I also though I could get a weak cell signal and perhaps he sent us a msg. No service, no signs of Dan. I yelled a few times but no reponse. I headed back to shore. We collected wood knowing if Dan showed up he would want and need a fire. Still had a couple hours of daylight left so no rush. Was a tiring day though. At least the snowmobile heading North was wide open for tomorrow. Made a good fire, had dinner, set up sleeping gear in the lean-to. Kept one side clear just in case Dan showed up. Shannon was a bit concerned Dan was not there.I said he knows what he is doing and he will be ok. There are a lot of reasons which could explain why he is not at this meet up spot. Regardless there was nothing we could do. The crescent moon came out and some stars. Was a warm night.
Yesterday was supposed to be the shortest day, but the off trail bushwhacking with the pulk sled was long and tiring. Hopefully today would be more starightforward. No coves to get around and no inlet streams to cross. Just follow the snowmobile trail and hope to find the side trail to the water and lean-to. Had a big breakfast to start me off. Need to remember this one, Peak2Refuel freeze dried breakfast skillet. Too much for one, and needs salsa or taco sauce. As expected the trail was easy to follow. Sun was out so I had on my sunglasses and sunscreen. Snowpack was getting heavy. As we neared the turn-off I told Shannon to keep her eyes peeled for a trail off to the right. We did not see one, but after a small climb spotted some flagging. It was in the right direction so we headed into the open woods. Soon some more flagging... looked like ribbons from wrapping presents. A lot of firewood to be seen which was good as we approached the lean-to. We arrived with plenty of time. It was getting warm.
Shannon checked out the drainage feeding into the pond. The ice was thin there. She used the hatchet to cut a hole for easy water access. We collected quite a bit of wood. At time I would head to the lake to look and yell for Dan. If he was heading this way, the ice would be too thin to access our shore. Probably getting thin out on the main pond too. My hope is that he headed back to our first lean-to. At one point both Shannon and I thought we heard a yell of "Russ". We darted to the shoreline and yelled/listened. Heard no more. Evening eventually came. Ate a big dinner, one of Denn's homemade freeze dried "Bigfoot Mac". Not sure if I breathed. I just inhaled it. After dark we spotted might across the pond in the vicinity of the lean-to we stayed at the first night. It had to be Dan. I tried to flash my headlamp in that direction a few times to see if I could get a response. Another warm night.
The last day was either going to be tough or easy depending on whether the trail was clear. We started out on the old lane I found while collecting wood. This lane coincided witht the trail on the map. It soon vanished, but I stayed on the approximate line taking what the land would give me. The lane would re- appear every so often. After about an hour or so of off trail, we coincided with the snowmobile trail. Machines had recently been on it and they cut blowdown. In retrospect we could have saved some time and energy just heading up the hill back to the snowmobile trail from yesterday, but I wasn't sure if that trail would be the same one. The different maps all had different trails. The snowmobile trail was easy going. A few mud pits to avoid. Every so often we would hit a section of trail which was at least 10 degrees warmer. Starnge sensation. The trail did quite a bit of winding around to get to the campground. A few side trails to avoid going in the wrong direction. As we entered the campground boundary, the trail was a mess. Rocky and muddy. At the kiosk for the campground where we first saw the ice-fisherman I saw boot tracks and what appeared to be sled tracks from Dan's pulk sled. As we reached the top of the access road, my car and a few other trucks were there. The parking area had since thawed out enough that I was parked in the middle. Dan's truck was gone, and a note on my car "Broke through the ice. Am ok. Sorry I made you worry."
Later I would talk to Dan and hear the entire story. It was quite the ordeal. When he first broke through the ice his initial thought was "Is this how it all ends?". Fortunately he was able to get out. He hoofed it back to the lean-to and got the fire re-started with the embers and kindling we had left. Who would have thought that this effort would be needed by one of use. Without gear, he needed to decide whether to get to the truck, or commit to spending the night. He made haste back tot he truck and was able to get some help from a nearby resident who offered a hot shower and bed. The next day a friend came with a canoe and other gear and the retrieved his sled, and pack which were stuck out in the ice. Dan also mentioned that if we are ever together on ice again and I had doubts, to speak up. I told him I was already forbidden from going on ice ever again after I told her about the note on the car.
The trip was quite interesting. So much happened which was unplanned and could have ended very badly. When I do my solo winter trips, I am significantly more conservative with what risks I am willing to take knowing that being alone is a significant risk to begin with.
