Besides gear, my other main part of research was cooking and food. All of these early writers had chapters on food and cooking. Many also included recipes for wild game. A few even included the weight savings of different types of provisions like the benefit of dried fruit vs canned. These were simpler times and we have much more variety even in our grocery stores than they did. The main takeaway regarding food was to take simple ingredients and utilize them in a variety of ways to create a multitude of different dishes. A surprise to me was the availability of powdered milk and eggs. The latter of which was often described in not-so pleasant terms. Like now, these woodsmen had their favorite "brands" which they would recommend. It was amusing to read the terminology for items most of which were obvious although some required additional research, For example, julienne (dried vegetables), dessicated fruit, portable soup (boullion). I also spent time researching prepared foods which were available in 1924 such as O'Henry and Baby Ruth candy bars, Underwood Deviled Ham, and Oreos.
Edward Cave had a nice breakdown for a 3-day trip. I started with this list to create my own.
Pack Sack Grub for 3 days
Flour 1.75 lbs
CornMeal 1.25 lbs
Rice 6 oz
Bacon 1 lb
Lard 4oz
sugar 12 oz
Coffee 4 oz
Tea 0.5oz
Baking Powder 2oz
Evaporated Cream 7oz
Salt 4oz
--------------------------------------
TOTAL 6 pounds
The final result of my research and planning resulted in these two lists; gear and food.
Gear List
|
wooden pack frame canvas pack canvas shoulder bag wool blanket waxed cotton tarp cheesecloth (bugnet) homemade cotton hammock canteen Compass match safe rope twine sewing kit Leather gloves |
Aluminum pot steel skillet aluminum "bread pan" ceramic cup folding knife sheath knife spoon waxed cotton bags for food Pendleton Wool shirt lightweight wool shirt wool socks (x2) silk pajamas wool underwear cotton bandana |
Clothing worn: linen shirt wool underwear wool pants wool felt hat wool socks LL Bean Boots silk scarf |
Food List
|
Cornmeal Flour w/baking powder & salt added Oatmeal beef jerky bouillon cubes dried mushrooms dried vegetable medley deviled ham
|
powdered milk coffee O'Henry candy bars Oreos brown sugar raisins dried apples nuts waxed cheese |
As far as the trip itself, the thought crossed my mind to hike the original trail as it existed in 1924. But after hiking the existing trail numerous times I am keenly aware of why the trail has been re-routed. Most of the time it was to bypass large flooded sections, in a few cases to reduce paved road walking, and in at least one instance to avoid private land. The last of which would mean it was impossible to hike the original trail even if I wanted to. I also chose to hike SouthBound starting from the Lake Placid Train Station as that is my preferred direction.
An incomplete bibliography:
The Boy Scout Hike Book by Edward Cave 1913
Camp and Trail by Stewart Edward White 1907
The Campers Handbook by Thomas Hiram Holding 1908
Camping Out by Warren Hastings Miller 1918
Camp Cookery by Horace Kephart 1910
Hints for Camping and Walking by John Mead Gould 1877
Woodcraft by G.W. Sears 1884
My Journal:
Much Thanks to buddy Ian who gave me a ride to/from my car and to Jennifer who met me at the train station to see me off.
Day 1: June 19th "1924"
Departed train station in Lake Placid @12:30pm. Hiked the road to the trailhead on Averyville Rd and signed in at the register. [original trailhead contniued for another 3 miles]. As I began my trek into the woods I hiked slowly and deliberately so as to not tire myself out. The trail was in a great condition, weather was partial clouds with an occassional slight breeze. I passed by 3 hikers heading northbound about 45 minutes in. The expected flooded area was larger than the last time I came through. Crossed on a log upstream and the next flooded area on the beavers dam. Trail became less and less maintained as I headed south. Took longer than expected to get to Wanika Falls, the timing was right with my pace, it just felt longer. The minor uphill was tiring for me; not in as good of shape as my last time.
The next half mile was even more tiresome. The remaing few miles for the day might take longer than expected. Typical NPT style, I stepped into some deep mud fortuntaley my boot stayed on. After the "fern hill" I lost the trail tread for a bit. Knowing its general heading I kept on the same direction until I was on the tread again. I stopped for some water by a nice stream. I did not fill up my canteen as I knew there was a nicer spot closer to Moose Pond lean-to. As the trail widened and headed more downhill, I regained some energy. Sooner than expected I was at the "twin falls" drainage a quarter mile from my desination for the night. I filled the canteen all the way and drank a few cups. I sat for a bit enjoying the cool water and the falls. Arrived at the lean-to @6:15, about fifteen minutes ahead of schedule. I had the area to myself so I set up camp and made some dinner, followed by cleanup and a rest. A small smudge fire to ward of the bugs.
Day 2 July 20th Saturday
Chilly night, but not too bad. The coolness kept away the bugs. During the night I heard loons and the slap of a beaver tail letting me know I was not truly alone on the pond. Made a cup of coffee and was soon on the trail. 8am. The next few miles I expected to be rough and they were, although I had been through worse. The external wooden frame pack is not conducive for climbing over and under blowdown so this activity was more tiring than usual. A lot more mud to contend with today, the LL Bean boots dealt with it well. Where the trail intersected Roaring Brook a mile or two before Duck Hole, I took a long break. These rivers and brooks are very peaceful. My itinerary includes a lot of breaks to enjoy the trail and also for me to rest and hydrate. I took another long break at Duck Hole, the new lean-to [now the old one since the original was taken down and replaced with a new one further North].
About 11am I was again on trail soon to be on the "longest 3 miles of the NPT', at least that is how it feels. It seems to take forever from the Ward Brook junction to the hermitage. I stopped for snack near Mountain Pond. A "trail runner" passed me heading South, not without first glancing at my gear. Next was the church section named by my friend Andy... pointless ups and downs. This is what makes these miles seem to take forever. Arrived at the hermitage @1:30. A quick "nod" to Noah and moved along. A couple backpackers heading North asked how far to the hermitage, I replied "about 50 yards'. One of them asked if I was "the hermit", we both chuckled. In no time I was at Ouluska lean-to. I always forget just how close to the hermitage the lean-to is. A shorter break here only 20 minutes, just long enough to write in the journal. [need to bring pens on my next visit].
Only about 2.5 miles to my destination for the night. Should get there early enough to do some chores; bathe and wash clothing. Will use the skillet to make dinner and possibly pre-cook breakfast& lunch for tomorrow. When I arrived the trail runner was exiting the water after a swim. We talked for a bit, he was just doing the Loop. I gave him intel on the remaining 15 miles and why I was dressed the way I was.
Took a bath and washed clothes. A lot of debris had piled up near the water access, so the main swimming area needed to be accessed from below. Back at the lean-to I took care of a couple blisters and set up camp. Made a ham and cornbread hash for dinner and pre-cooked a blueberry/raisin biscuit bread for tomorrow. The blueberries were found by the river. With some of the best and worst parts of the trail behind me, and the uphills being a real energy drag I am not looking forward to the big climb after Long Lake. I have scheduled extra time for the trail, so I might opt to take an extra day or two. So far I am still on schedule.
Sun Day 3 July 21st.
Woke up in the middle of the night on my butt. The hammock ripped apart. I landed hard. Lowered the cheesecloth mosquito netting and slept the remainder of the night on the ground. With the blanket over my head, I did not realize the sun had already risen. Must have slept ok even on the ground. A few rain drops as I packed up for the morning. Not enough to soak things, just enough to wet the leaves. While packing up I noticed the canvas on my pack was beginning to tear in a few places; some dry rot coupled with the weight and stress from the hiking. I guess my 50 year old body is handling the trail better than the 70+ year old gear.
Not sure what time I got on the trail, but soon was at Cold River #4. Took a short break. I had contemplated continuing downstream to the horse ford over the river like I usually do, but opted instead to use the suspension bridges.
[near the ford over the Cold River]
After Shattuck Clearing the trail follows old roads, this is one of my favorite sections of trail. Not just because of beauty but also the history. Nothing really special here, just a nice spot. Took a break near my favorite part and contemplated the history. Prior to the construction of the NPT, these tote roads were the access from Long Lake to the Cold River. In fact much of the NPT was built using existing roads from logging, and other uses. I find myself thinking the trail is more wilderness now than in 1924. The trails are footpaths instead of wagon roads. The buildings on the trail are simply lean-tos and outhouses, while in 1924 there were hunting camps with wood stoves, and on Long Lake, (the family name escapes me) offered a place to stay before heading into the Cold River. The matriarch (Maude?) was known to make excellent sandwiches for the travelers. This paradox also existed on most of the rest of the trail. One might argue that in 1924 the trail would have been easier since it was mostly a dirt road and not a wilderness foot path as it exists now.
After my break which included drying out my socks which had wicked water from the wet brush into my boots, I looked again at my pack and noticed the tears growing. On some of the uphills I was feeling a slight pain in my hip. I wondered if it was due to the boots slipping on wet leaves or something else. With the extra days in my pocket, I figured I would get to Plumbley's and take a better look at my gear and the mileages. Only 5 miles. I already mentioned it, but this section between Cold River and Long Lake is one of my favorites. No real views, just a pine and hemlock needle carpeted trail upon an old roadway. I calculated options as I walked. I scared up a grouse along the way. The uphills are starting to cause my hip to ache more, although they are not making me as tired. I just swapped out one physical inconvenience for another. I noticed the pack likes to ride up on my belt which makes it rather comfortable. How long did it take for folks to integrate a hip belt to backpacks?
While crossing Pine Brook, I slipped on a rock and almost fell. Stepping into the deeper water I was able to maintain my balance. I rarely slip, and never to this degree. While the LL Bean boots do great in the mud, they are a bit slippery on wet rocks and roots. They are very quiet on the forest floor, allowing me to see more wildlife like the grouse earlier. My mind wandered, and I contemplated whether the trail was trying to tell me something. At Plumbley's I founbd it empty. It was still early though. Opted to stay here since there was a cell signal. I boiled some water and made a vegetable soup with dumplings.
While sitting in the lean-to listening to the boats on the lake, With the loss of the hammock for sleeping and the canvas pack beginning to tear more, I concluded it was not going to be enjoyable to continue much farther. If the pack fails, carrying the gear would be a disaster. I had planned on hiking the 140 miles of trail for her 100th birthday. I suppose 40 miles would a good enough honor. Or I could return for the remaining 100 miles with a different pack. I called my buddy Ian to see if he could pick me up in Long Lake. I let others also know I would be exiting the trail at Long Lake.
On a postive note, the vegetable stew with dumplings was really good. Some ham or herbs would have made it over the top. A nice breeze off the lae is keeping the bugs at bay. Enjoying the final evening before my ride. All of the evenings had been great, too bad it won't continue. But I will have more adventures in my future.
Monday July 22nd
Sleeping on the lean-to floor with no pad is horrible. I wonder if this is why the early lean-tos had no wooden floor but were on the soft ground. Made even more comfortable with years of spruce boughs used as bedding. This practice is not allowed anymore in the Adirondacks. My right hip was especially pained sleeping on the floor. Ride plans changed, Iam would not be available until tomorrow, so I would spend another night on the trail. Plan is to hike the 6.5 miles to Catlin Bay, then only 1.5 to the road tomorrow. With only a few miles for the day, I lazed around with coffee and relaxed by the lake.
When I finally headed out I stopped by the "neighbors" in the other lean-to. Elizabeth, her husband and son were from Brooklyn. They had been coming to Long Lake to canoe for many years. Elizabeth was quite interested in my historical trek. We bid farewll around 9:30.
A beautiful day for walking, but wow did my hip hurt. I was relying on my hiking stick to walk up even the slightest of climbs. Then it dawned on me, when my hammock broke I must have landed on something causing my hip pain. Makes sense now as the pain feels like an inflamed bruise hurting more on the uphills (of course). Walking slowly and quietly I saw quite a few deer along this section. One stopped in the woods and watched me for a bit. Wow am I walking slow; the hip pain is really slowing me down. I suppose it was a good thing the ride plans changed as I would not have been able to make it to the road at the agreed upon time. There is no way I would have been able to do the next 100 miles with this pain either, even with the extra days. I stopped at one of the many springs along the way to fill up and take a break. Cold water is always nice. Looking forward to a swim at Catlin Bay. Bugs are more apparent today, but not too bad. Possibly because I am just moving so slow.
I pause thinking I hear a deer huffing at me, a moment later I realize it is the sound of a hand saw a short distance away. I soon came to a few folks clearing trail. I thanked them as I passed. Some nice clear trail for a while, until it wasn't. Quite a bit of blowdown to content with. Usually not too much of an issue, but with this pack and my hip pain traversing the jungle gym of branches was a painful chore. It was especially bad when I would duck under and have to then stand up. This would not have been possible without my hiking stick as an aid.
Took another break at Kelly's Point lean-to to eat an O'Henry candy bar. Not sure if the hotel was in operation in 1924, but this would be just another example of how the trail has become wilder. Between Kelly's and Hidden Cove there is a section of trail which runs right along the lake. I call this "windy cove" because there is always a nice breeze coming off the lake here. I stopped for a bit at the inlet creek just before the cove to wipe off sweat and enjoy the breeze. Windy cove is also a repository for all kinds of debris washing up from the lake. Most of it driftwood, but a lot of parts from docks and camps.
The trail then swings uphill and away from the lake deeper into the woods. There is a "newsih" sign for the Hidden Cove lean-to. Prior to the signage, one used to have just know when to turn off the trail. Not long after the familiar ascent and descent to Catlin Bay #2. Finding the lean-to empty, I crossed the inlet heading to #1. The connector to the island was underwater, so I backtracked to #2. Crossing the inlet boulders reminded me of the giant boulder fields in the Wind River Range, just on a much smaller scale. I dropped off my pack at the lean-to and headed to the lake for a swim. As I ambled to the lake, my hip hurt a lot. My hiking stick was doing a lot more than I even thought. I filled my coffee pot and took a swim. The water was warm, and thesandy bottom felt good on my feet. From the water's edge I could hear voices from the other lean-to, so it must have been occupied.
Back up to the lean-to, the hip was not as bad. The water may have helped, or just the rest. I started a fire to boil water and hung a clotheline for my laundry and just relaxed. One of my blisters had some sand in it, so I carefully extracted it and covered it with tape (adhesive plaster). Made a late lunch over the remaining coals; a cheese filled biscuit. While the baking powder biscuits are fast to cook, they are not nearly as good as the yeast camp bread we make on our canoe trips. Of course those take significantly longer. Boat traffic picking up on a lake in the afternoon. Just like snowmobiles in the winter. Time it just right, and hikers can have the lake to themsleves. The lean-tos have been very clean along the lake. Sitting in Catlin #2 I am overlooking the "swamp". The lake breeze is keeping the bugs away. I am reminded of my first thru hike before the trail routed over the rocky inlet and passed right through the swamp. There was not much remaining of the bridge when I did that crossing. I doubt if any currently remains.
A fellow with a packraft came up from the lake. He is doing part of the Northern Forest Canoe trail with the raft. I invited him to spend the night at the lean-to as the sky was beginning to hint at rain. He set up his tent nearby and we chatted for a while. We were visited by a guy from across the inlet who was leading a group of teenagers on a canoe trip. We all chatted a bit. As the rains came, my compatriot opted to move into the lean-to.
Tuesday July 23rd
Only a mile & a half to the road to meet Ian. I packed up slow and walked even slower. I was a about 30 minutes early. Was able to text Ian to let him know I was there. He was delayed with traffic closures.
Epilogue:
Much thanks to my good friend Ian for the rides and all my other friends and family for the support and encouragement. Love you all.
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