July 19th-Andys Cabin
20th -23rd Cold River
23-25th FLL
Part One: Cold River Loop
Sunday, Andy and I stayed at his cabin so we could get an early start Monday morning. We drove separately b/c I was staying longer in the woods after we came out of the Cold River. Surprised at the number of cars in the Seward lot for a Monday. The register book was full, so I grabbed an extra page from my car to sign in. We took the horse trail to Calkins while chit chatting about past trips and other things. The trail goes quickly. We noted a lot of the blowdown has been cleared. Took a lunch break at Calkins. The 46r crew has been hard at work on the cribbing for the new bridge. Water level was low so we were able rock hop just above the bridge. Continuing on we circled around thd sand hill making our way up to the height of land. Familiar trail passes quickly. Soon we were headed downhill and the spring came into view. We filled up our water bottles and pressed on. Last time Andy and I hiked this portion together, the area past the Latham Pond turn off was flooded. It has been a few years. While that section may have been dry, the beavers were hard at work at the low area just down stream from Cold River 3 lean-to. We picked our way along the mucky dam being careful of the sharpened remnants of the alders.
As CR3 came into view, tents and hammocks were visible. We wandered over and said hi. Immeditalely one of the guys said, there is another lean-to just down the trail. I replied with a smile, yep, we know. I am the adopter of them. I introduced myself. The guy we were talking to, David, said, are you DuctTape?. Yep, that's me. The conversation continued withem recalling seeing my name in the books, how much they love CR3. Also told us the story about when they were "stuck" in here during the major flood a few years back. The one which took out the bridges and some of the culverts. They made space in the lean-to for Andy to set up, I hung my hammock near my usual spot. We all hung out and told stories about the area snd our advdntures. The other two guys were Dan (Dave's brother), and Bill. All were from near the Rochester area. They never wrote in the log books before, but said they will now.
Tuesday, we said farewell to the cold river boys and headed to Ouluska lean-to, with a breakfast break at Seward. The trail has been in great condition. The maintainer for the section, Betsy had just come through. In addition, Mark Alexander also was back here over Memorial Day weekend. At Ouluska, a bunch of through hikers came by, all solo heading in different directions. We spoke with one southbounder who was attempting a six day thru. We gave him recommendations of great spots along the trail. A northbound hiker, Andy dubbed speed demon just cruised by barely even acknowledging us. We spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out and reading the old transcribed journals. We both crashed in the lean-to. A large family of megansers swam upstream next to the lean-to.
Wednesday would be something for us both. We have wanted to find the Petty Cutoff trail for a few years. This trip was it. The old maps had two different possibilities. We went with the more east-west option which Bob had described to me. Took a compass bearing as we headed off trail where it seemed like the cut-off would have been. Using what the land gave us, we would hot sections of oldtrail, then lose it in wet areas. It was slow going. When we reached the spot where the river first came close to the old trail, Andy suggested we check to see the water level and perhaps we could walm the rivee instead of heading back inland to avoid a swamp just ahead before the old ford. Water level seemed conducive. This would either be a great idea or our worst decision ever. The deepest spots were barely knee level. But still we walked slowly. Andy spotted a coyote way up ahead. It took off soon after I spotted it. He was a big one, seemed to have a reddish tint to his coat. Just before the last curve of the river where we were headed, Andy found the rusted remnant of a log peavy which he carried to the Northern lean-tos. It was hung on the outside of Northern #2. We guessed where the ford was, it higher water it might have been more obvious as the only shallow section but the river was all shallow for the last quarter mile. Andy checked downstream of the island, while I went upstream. The horse trail was right there for both of us. Andy hit it right where the trail came down off the hillside. Was easy to follow, muddy, rocky and a bunch of blowdown. The river walk was much more enjoyable. Just like the Calkins lean-to horse area, the Northern was also very grown in. A quick inspection showed both lean-tos leak and were quite "dark" as the nearby cedar and hemlock tree branches were now touching the tops of the structures. The sun would come out as did a summer misty rain, this battle went back and forth all afternoon. Andy displayed the peavy on the outside wall. He went for a swim while I gathered firewood. I could hear him yell when he entered the water. I would do the same later as I submerged my body into the cold. There was a nice rock seat in the river allowing for a confortable rest in the water after that initial cold shock. With clothing hanging out to dry, we made dinner. I think we made it to hiker midnight before we crawled into our bsgs. A light rain had come before bed, it now showed where the lean-to leaked so Andy was able to rotate his stuff to avoid the drip and splash.
Thursday, we were both up early. It was chilly at night. Andy's thermometer gave us a low of 46. A quick coffee for me and we headed up the horse trail towards the other river ford a few miles away. The trail was rough, a lot of blowdown and rocks. We looked a bit at the cold river canyon as this portion is called due to the high walls on both sides of the river. Water was deep and dark here. A couple spots where one could scamble down just before the canyon. Bob and George talked about fishing from there. The trail got rougher and more grown in as we went upstream. Andy windered out loud how impossible it would be for horses now. The two+ miles upstream were slow, but the river ford here was shallow enough for us to rock hop. It also provided a great view of a high peak, possibly McNaughton. Historically it is not considered to be one of the 46, but it should be as the summit is above 4000'. Many 46rs climb it in recognition of this fact.
From the ford, we were back on the NPT heading southbound now to the Cold River #1 lean-tos.
Had late breakfast at CR2. While sitting in the lean-to, we heard a voice. Coming around from the back of the lean-to was Freddo, a thru hiker who was filming and narrating his approach. As he rounded the front I smiled and held up two fingers in a "peace sign". He stopped the camera and said the peach sign was an awesome touch to the video. I hope he posts his adventure on youtube. Freddo was cruising through the NPT. As an AT thru hiker class of 83? He knows what he is doing. Chatty guy. Said he was not very impressed with the NPT as there aren't any views. As a lowland trail he is correct. The views are at the lakeside campsites. If one does npt stpp and/or camp at these opportunities the trail is just a green tunnel and can certainly be boring. He was planning on making it out tonight, a lot of miles to go and some really tough ones due to lack of maintenance in that section. Freddo left and we did soon after.
We had a short section of NPT then turning North on the old truck trail which mirrors somewhat the old road from Monday. We had one known flooded section to contend with, then rather easy well maintained trail. After a quick snack at Camp Four lean-tos, one of which a hiker stashed his gear, likely climbing Seymour Mtn we headed towards the Ward Brook and Blueberry lean-tos. Trail was fast. WB was empty and between them the old trail through Ouluska pass eas discernable, at least for a few yards. George and Bob have hiked through the pass, and vowed to never do it again. Too rough, and tons of blowdown. They always came up from the Cold River, I wondered if the other direction might be a bit easier. Probably not.
The campsite near Blueberry had a few tents, nearer the lean-to at the bridge a couple kids were filtering water. They had matching t-shirts for their scout troop in Honeyoye Falls. Both had just earned Eagle and graduated HS. A brief conversation then we pressed on. We had considered this morning possibly spending the night at one of the lean-tos, but it was still so early and the trail was going fast we figured to just do the whole 12- 13 miles. A couple miles later, we passed a small group headed in. It turned out to be the parents of the scouts. The section right along the Ampersand property seemed to go on forever. We eventually made it back to our cars. Both of us took off our nasty clothes, washed up the best we could and put on clean.
Andy was headed to his cabin before home, I was driving to part two of my adventure.
Part Two: French Louie Loop
After filling my gas tank and belly, I realized I had plenty of daylight to get to Cedar Lake from the Pillsbury trailhead. The trailhead was jammed with cars; surprisingly so for a Thursday. I parked where I could and headed up the trail noting who had signed in and their destination. The Rochester group was already in as expected. I knew their itinerary and would possibly join up with them on Friday. Soon after I headed up old military road, a group of day hikers came down. They were struggling. They wanted to go see Pillsbury Lake, but the trail was too rough for them. One guy ssid the rocks were killing his feet.
I traversed the 5 miles to Cedar Lake in under 2 hours. Compared to the trails I hiked earlier in the week, this was easy. The initial uphill did not feel as steep as I remembered. Must be a result of the long continuous uphills from earlier. The trail was very clear. Tread from an ATV were present. I would later learn these were from rangers heading in to Whitney with pumps and gear to put out a wildfire on the island. There was one person at the Cedar Lake tentsite. At the first lean-to, ot was occupied by a gentleman from Vermont and his two kids, Virginia age 8 and Lincoln age 11. This was Virginia's first trip. Lincoln and his father had visited thd area four times earlier. She was excited snd proud of herself. I encouraged her more. She was quite talkative. They invited me to stay, but I was headed to #2.
At the Beaver Pond tentsite, I stopped to ssy hello and recommended they watch the clock because they are right next to sunset bridge and should not miss it.
When I arrived the lean-to was a mess of gear. The occupants' hammockers were set up nearby but they were nowhere to be seen. I leaned my pack against a tree and went to check out the spring. Same as usual, though I could see tracks leading to it. So others who know of it still check it out. Other items undisturbed.
When I returned to the lean-to,they guys there had moved all their gear to one side to give me space. Two brothers and friends, Nathaniel, Titus, Lucas and Christian. They had been off fishing ehen I arrived. Nathaniel was the oldest, he had checked out the spring earlier. It was getting close to 8pm, so I set up my gear in the lean-to and waited for sunset.
It was dark before I turned in, so well after sunset. The other guys headed to thrir hammocks and stayed up later. They were very considerate at keeping their volume down. Not that it would have mattered after hiking just shy of 20 miles today. I was whupped.
Friday, I was up early as usual. The temp again overnight was low. Fog was covering the lake as the sun came up over the hillside. Of course I headed to the bridge to watch. Short miles today to catch up with thd Rochester crew. Also want to look some more for the phantom tentsite at Mud Lake. The flagged reroute between Mud and West might be close to finished, even if not I will follow it to see how close it came yo my scouting s few years ago.
Took a break at the wagon wheel campsite. While the lean-tos get the majority of traffic, this site sees a good amount of use. Nice view from the water here too.
Even slow walking I caught up to a guy from Ithaca with his young son. They are originally from California. We talked a bit as the young boy took a break, and played on some rocks. I looked to no avail for the tentsite. I will tslk to Jamie about creating one near where the coordinates say it should be. The reroute is a dream, it entered the woods almost exactly where I expected. Tools were still left, piled up under a tarp. Some more rock work to do. Water bars, steps and shoring up the sidewalls. Stopped for lunch and clean up at West Lake #1. Such a great spot. I have only stayed here once, it is mostly a midday stop for me. I should do more shorter mileage trips here and spend time at West. While I was resting the Ithaca boys arrived for a break too. They were headed to Sampson for the night.
I stopped at the spring just after West Lake. Nice to see this one with water. So many others including drainages are dry. Just before the bridge, I passed by a couple guys headed the opposite way. They had stayed at Pillsbury and were loving the trail. This was their first time backpacking. The weather and trail conditions could not be more perfect for them.
My next stop was South Lake lean-to. This was the planned night for the Rochester group. It was probably too early for them to arrive so I waited a bit, read the shelter log and recalled the few times I stayed at this lean-to when it was down by the beach. The group had not arrived by 4pm, I thought maybe they were exploring French Louies Cave. Regardless, I was going to spend the night a half mile further at the West Canada Creek lean-to as it is one of the few along the NPT I have not stayed in. The others are Rodney Point #1 & #2, the new one at Chickadee Brook and Cold River #1. While I read the South Lake log book I saw Ithaca and son pass by along the trail. I waited for a while longer, wrote a note the shelter log to the group and headed to WCanCr.
Another spot usually relegated as a lunch or snack spot. Not a particularly striking view from here except maybe the sky yo the SouthEast. Could be a good spot for stargazing. I set up my stuff and made a smudge fire. Being solo I wondered how long I would stay up. Very short mileage day.
Saturday I was up before 5:30. Skipping coffee and considering hiking all the way out today, only about 9 miles give or take. I crossed the bridge over the creek recalling the high water crossing after the bridge washed out from Irene. I did not fill up eith water here as I expected some better along the way. The trail was nice to hike in the early morning before the heat of thd day kicks in along with its insects. The usual wet sections were dry. I should have filled up at the creek. I have about 8oz remaning. I stopped at Ssmpson where the old lean-to was right along the trail. I planned on getting water from the lake, but the trail was a few contours above. Fortunately the spring just after Ssmpdon was glowing nicely. I always forget about this one. All full with water including dampening my A/C bandana I continued on. Passed by Whitney ftom above. Should go camp there again. The old jeep road heading south to Otter was still obvious. As I approached the old trail to Whitney the atv tracks appeared again. At this time I had not yet learned of the fire. The jeep road was easy going again, not that the previous trail was difficult this was just very wide and open. All the usual wet spots along the way were dry. I stopped at Pillsbury, had a snack, read and wrote in the shelter log. Having left Pillsbury I only had a small rise to go up to the junction then it would be mostly downhill to the parking lot. I was approaching the cars, prob only 200 yards or so and teo college aged kids were heading up the trail. They asked me a few questions snd I quickly realized they were looking for the Pillsbury mountain firetower trail. I said, oh follow me this is the wrong trail. At the trail register, I pointed them to the trail they needed. They thanked me and were out of sight before I even finished signing out.
Heading home a few days early.
