Monday, December 23, 2024

Early November trips -Colvin Brook and Long Lake paddle

 Headed to Colvin Brook with Justin, Shannon, Bill, and Bella (the wonderdog). We all met at the NPT trailhead on Cedar River Rd. Temp was cooler than expected and were not supposed to have rain but the drive in was almost all rain. Fortunately it subsided before we started hiking. Along the way we got some snow. Just the large slow falling flakes which make the woods pretty to walk through. None stayed on the ground. The trail goes quickly from the road to the Carry lean-to. Like the last time, the lean-to was occupied. This time by hunters. We could hear one snoring inside the shelter and his small field dressed buck was hanging in a tree nearby. We headed back to the trail and continued on towards the spur trail. At halfway bridge the beavers have begun to dam up Lamphere Brook. Some wet areas only at present, but by spring it could be bad. The inital dam is just below the bridge. The busy rodents have already begun using the bridge and surrounding trees to expand their pond.

About another half mile to the Sucker Brook spur and then the crossing of the Cedar River. Justin found a way to rock hop while the rest of us switched to water shoes and braved the frigid water. It was only lunch-time so we had plenty of time to gather wood which wasn't too difficult with the four of us and in an area which gets little use. The log book entries included a lengthy narrative and an entry from a feloow adkforum member whom we just missed as he visited just last weekend. I created a repository for the Colvin Brook Lean-to log book. https://colvinbrook.blogspot.com/ .

After lunch, camp set-up and wood collecting we gathered around the fire and shared stories as we enjoyed some beverages. Darkness is beginning to come soon now, and after this weekend will be an hour earlier. At least we get an extra hour of sleep before sunrise tomorrow. I skipped dinner as my lunch was big. I retired to the hammock and as usual was up before the sun. I started a warming fire as the sun began to light up the river. The early sun combined with the fog made a nice picture. 


Not wanting leave any time soon we hung out for a bit. Even after packing up and crossing the river we took some extra time to go down river to the confluence with Colvin Brook to look up at the Blue Ridge Mtn. The night's frost had not yet burned off the northern exposure. We took another break at the campsite on the Cedar River flow about a quarter mile to the cars. I will need to remind myself to let the DEC know about the new beaver dam when we get back.

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Met Dan at the Long Lake boat launch. Quite a few trucks and trailers. Will be some cold paddling for us. We are not going far though, just downstream to a lean-to for a couple nights. We originally planned on Rodney, but with the projected weather for Monday AM, we had no desire to be miserable for an extra few hours on the paddle out so we switched to the Catlin Bay lean-to. We both set-up inside and then I went to start gathering wood. We then took the canoe across the bay to gather more wood and the island was picked rather clean. We loaded up the canoe with wood and returned to base.


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Annual Thanksgiving trip was another success. Eric, Kalie, Chad, Jim and Shannon all joined me at the Waupaunau State Forest. Eric and I arrived Thursday and spent the day collecting firewood and hanging out. The rest arrived Friday. I cooked 3 pounds of turkey breast in the ashes. Came out divine. Everyone else helped by preparing a side. Bellies full, beautiful woods and great friends. Thankful again.

Saturday, October 19, 2024

Rainy weekend in Shaker Mtn WF

 Due to expected rain, we changed our location to be a shorter hike to a lean-to where we would just hang out. 

The first day's weather was beautiful but we knew it would not last. Sunday would rain on/off all day. We had procured enough firewood and there was plenty more close by to keep the fire going. The cherry wood really heated up the inside of the lean-to.

Busy area, with a group of day hikers followed by another large group who camped around the point from us.




Monday, September 9, 2024

Quick trip to the "Wet" Canada Lakes Wilderness- Cedar Lake

 

Picked up Shannon at 8am in Syracuse and we drove to Wakely Dam. Weather called for rain and we hoped get on the trail before it really hit. In preparation we put on our rain gear and pack covers. Rain started soon after. We took a break a Carry lean-to for lunch. A group of four had kayaked in and set up a large tent. The lean-to had their chairs and their stash of wood. They kindly moved aside and let us sit out of the rain for lunch. 

After about 8 miles, we both were getting tired of the rain, and the trail seemed to go on forever. Some sections of the NPT just feel longer. At least the SCA crew had side cut my section so a majority of the car wash areas were free and clear. I also noted they cut the ground logs so there was less to step (or climb) over. Just before the Cedar Lake dam, we ran into "Shaggy". He was on his way to the Carry lean-to but after hearing about the party going on, he opted to head back to Cedar #1 where he had left another hiker. Shaggy was in his 70's and recounted some memories of his first time to Cedar Lake in 1967. I asked if he recalled the old ranger station which he did. We were told Cedars #2 lean-to was empty so we continued on the extra mile to, in my opinion, the better lean-to. 

Shannon changed into dry clothes immediately. I took off my rain gear and put on a dry shirt. I was hoping the rain would subside soon so I could gather wood to make a fire. By 6pm, the rain stopped, so I headed out and gathered some kindling. I found a giant downed birch tree from which I gathered an armful of bark. A dead leaning barkless maple would mostly complete what I needed. A few wet spruce branches would later be gathered. Using the charred logs, the bark and kindling a decent fire was going. the dead dry maple was soon providing enough heat to dry us out completely.

A few beers later and both of us were ready for bed. The night went quickly (for me at least). the few times I awoke, I noted the strong winds. I tried to sleep in, but was eventually up a  little before 7am.

 There was a chill in the air, so I started the fire for some morning warmth, After breakfast we headed out. I set out first so I could get photos of the other lean-to in preparation for Lean2rescue. Shaggy had already departed, Pat was still getting ready. I took a panorama of photos for George. Soon Shannon arrived as did a few sprinkles. We had hoped for a nice day for the walk out but it was not to be. On & off rain for most of the hike out. A few times the sun would peek through the clouds and we could take off our rain gear to let our bodies breathe. 

Back at the car close to 1 pm and the temp was 47 degrees. We knew if was chilly, but not that cold. Even with the rain, it was a fun trip. Am ready to head back to spend more time without the rain; hopefully do some fishing before trout season ends.

Saturday, August 17, 2024

Cold River Seclusion

 Rarely do I stop at the Calkins Brook lean-to for my first night. I decided to do so on this trip that way I could way slowly the next day up & down the CCC road to the Cold River and potentially explore a bit off trail. There was a couple also spending the night. One of their friends knew of me, not sure how. We talked about this trail and others. They were slowly extending their trips into more adventurous types. The next day their plan was to do the old horse trail south of the cold river, I had this on my agenda as well. The next day I was up early and headed out. I checked out the short cut to Seward Pond which Cold River Bob told me about. I did not explore it though. Will save that for a day trip from Calkins. I did check out the old trail to Boulder Brook for a bit. Saw some artifacts along the way. I buchwhacked along the brook just up on the ridge paralleling the trail until I came to a large depression full of water. I wondered if this was dug out by the CCC when making the road as it did not appear natural, but who knows. I then made a quick right turn and rejoined the trail. As usual i stopped at the spring to fill up. I was not sure if my lean-to friends had passed me by while I was off trail.

Since it has been a while, I checked out Latham Pond. The trail to Latham is really growing in. A few spots the blowdown required me to find an alternate course. I was interested in guessing where the Lattimores had their first camp. I figured it would be uphill from the pond a ways on a large level spot. I assumed that the trees would not provide me any clues from 100 years ago. I made my best guess as to the spot and sat for moment. There was an obvious path straight down from here to the pond. I doubt it was from the Lattimores, but if my guess was correct they probably used it too. Near the connector to the lower pond, there was a small campsite. Possibly just a spot for shore lunch. I paused for a bit before heading back to the main trail.

I was happy to see the flooded section was now a dry meadow. In fact the water cource which the beavers had dammed up was nowhere to be seen. I wonder if the spring floods had rerouted it. I opted to stay at Cold River #3 instead of going to Moose Pond Stream. I figured the couple would like to have some seclusion, as did I. Plus it is really difficult to pass up CR#3.

The sky was cloudy and in the distance was some rumbling. Soon the sky opened up for a short period. Was glad to be in the lean-to.


           

After a wonderful night at my favorite spot, I headed upstream on the Cold River to check out the lean-tos. I of course waited until after the glorius sunrise over the river. I did spend some time exploring uphill behind the Seward Camp looking for the old trail. The woods were open so it would have been easy going except for the blowdown. Easy enough to manuever around. I found some of the old stoves from the camp as well as a crosscut saw blade. Across the drainage behind some rocks was a cache of jars similar to those found at the Seward Camp. The old camp was growing in so thickly now, no one will stumble across it. Even the artifatcs are getting buried. The spring and cauldron still evade my discovery. Next time I will bring a better metal detector and head farther up the drainage on the level of the camp.



Back at camp I relaxed a bit before dinner and bed. The next day I checked out the old horse campsite with the picnic tables. I then headed downstream exploring the old trail. the plan was to get at least to the junction of Boulder Brook and the Cold River. Also to maybe find the ridge of what appeared to be CCC planted pines. The path was easy enough to follow, and even when it disappeared it was soon apparent again. Some old logging artifacts along the way. not sure exactly what they are. Oddly enough I soon came to a backpack against a tree. A called out, and the owner was a little ways away probably squatting over a cat hole. I felt bad disturbing his morning ritual. he was headed in the opposite direction of me. Not sure where he started. The river bent around significantly here, and when I came to its bank, the flow direction had me confused for a bit because of the bend. Looking at the map it then made sense. I was close to the Boulder Brook junction. The river was wide and shallow here. Easy to walk along the sandy edge downstream a bit. It almost looked at though one could cross the river here to connect with the Pine Point trail on the other side. Around the bend and past Boulder Brook would be where we saw the pine ridge from the other side. Knowing this was relatively easy to here, this would be a good way to get there next time. Also will need to go upstream of Boulder to where the spur trail ended. Probably a nice fishing spot and maybe a campsite location.


[Looking towards the bend where the Boulder Brook enters the Cold River]

After my exploration of the old trail, I follwed it back to the horse camp and then took a cutoff back to the CCC road. It wasn't late, but I also did not want to get home late. Stopped again at the spring, and at the executive wahsroom. I also explored the caches Bob told me about. they were much shallower than the beer cave and both were empty.

As I was crossing Calkins Brook where the old bridge was washed out, a couple on the other side waited for me. They asked if I was Cold River Bob. I chuckled and said no, but I had talked to him recently. A brief pause at the lean-to and then the short 6 miles out.






Sunday, July 28, 2024

3 days on a busy Raquette Lake -canoe trip

 

After the NPT trip, I loaded up thr car with canoe and fishing gear and headed up to Raquette Lake. There are two lean-tos close to each other in Lonesome Bay. The parking area was quite full, I did find a spot and hopefully the car will be there without a ticket when i return in 3 days. 

I paddled up the western side of the lake past the bustling summer camps and the quiet lakeside cottages. At the former, kids were running, playing and swimming. At the latter adults were sitting quietly lakeside reading, playing cards and other relaxing activities. Not many boats active on the lake. Those that were seemed to be for transport. A few tour style pontoon boats were slowly cruising around the different bays. 

In Lonesome Bay a few small craft with people fishing near the weeds. I spotted the first lean-to and found it vacant so I set up camp. The lauch area was steep and eroded, but near the lean-to was wide and flat. Some wood was nearby so I collected it for the small fire later. I wandered around a bit noting artifacts from older camps in days gone by. The 2nd lean-to was accessible if one opted to cross over a wet swampty section. It would be more desrireable to paddle which I would do the next day.

So for the next 2 days I relaxed at camp and stayed a night in each lean-to. The first night I listened to taps being played over the loudspeaker at one of the cam,ps across thr lake followed by "lights out". I complied and went to bed. While at the second, a family pulled up in a pontoon boat on a quest for a geo-cache in the area. They found the location, but the cache must have been removed.  Later in the evening a fisherman landed a decent bass in the weeds just off the bank near the lean-to landing.

Morning of the third day, I set out early on the calm glassy lake to head back. A loon was my guide for the first 50 yards. The lake was eerily quiet as I seemed to be the only one awake; quite the contrast. The draw of the paddle and the small wake from the canoe were all that disturbed the surface of the water. As the sun rose inbt he distance I made my way back to the launch to my awaiting ticket-less car.



Tuesday, July 23, 2024

40 miles on the NPT "1920s Vintage Style"

[photo by Jennifer K.]

Prologue:
About a dozen or so years ago after one of my NPT thru-hikes  I realized the trail would be 100 years old in the not so distant future. To celebrate her birthday, I planned on a vintage trip using gear and food only available in 1924. Over the next years I would spend countless hours reading and researching the ways of backpackers in the early 20th century. They did not refer to our hobby as backpacking, instead there were multiple terms used such as tramping or pedestrian camping. One of my first takeaways was the obsession with pack weight of these trampers. It is often mentioned in the backpacking community about heavy gear and the new concept of lightweight backpacking. A common refrain of lightweight backpacking is the lightest gear is that which you do not take. The old-timers were the O.G.s of the lightweight backpacking. G.W. Sears aka Nessmuk wrote, "Go light, the lighter the better, so that you have the simplest material for health, comfort and enjoyment." Materials for tents were recommended as "balloon silk" or "fine egyptian cotton". Eider down sleeping bags were even available for those willing to pay for it; just like now. The compulsion to reduce weight is probably best captured by Stewart Eward Whdite's book "Camp and Trail". He dedicated almost an entire chapter on the concept. Here is what he wrote in 1907:

"When you have reached home after your trip, turn your duffle bag upside down on the floor. Separate the contents into three piles. Let pile No. 1 include those articles you have used every day—or nearly that often; let pile No. 2 comprise those you have used but once; and pile No. 3 those you have not used at all. Now, no matter how your heart may yearn over the Patent Dingbat in No. 3, shut your eyes and resolutely discard the two latter piles. "

Besides gear, my other main part of research was cooking and food. All of these early writers had chapters on food and cooking. Many also included recipes for wild game. A few even included the weight savings of different types of provisions like the benefit of dried fruit vs canned. These were simpler times and we have much more variety even in our grocery stores than they did. The main takeaway regarding food was to take simple ingredients and utilize them in a variety of ways to create a multitude of different dishes. A surprise to me was the availability of powdered milk and eggs. The latter of which was often described in not-so pleasant terms. Like now, these woodsmen had their favorite "brands" which they would recommend. It was amusing to read the terminology for items most of which were obvious although some required additional research, For example, julienne (dried vegetables), dessicated fruit, portable soup (boullion). I also spent time researching prepared foods which were available in 1924 such as O'Henry and Baby Ruth candy bars, Underwood Deviled Ham, and Oreos.

Edward Cave had a nice breakdown for a 3-day trip. I started with this list to create my own.
Pack Sack Grub for 3 days
Flour 1.75 lbs
CornMeal 1.25 lbs
Rice 6 oz
Bacon 1 lb
Lard 4oz
sugar 12 oz
Coffee 4 oz
Tea 0.5oz
Baking Powder 2oz
Evaporated Cream 7oz
Salt 4oz
--------------------------------------
TOTAL 6 pounds

The final result of my research and planning resulted in these two lists; gear and food.

Gear List

wooden pack frame

canvas pack

canvas shoulder bag

wool blanket

waxed cotton tarp

cheesecloth (bugnet)

homemade cotton hammock

canteen

Compass

match safe

rope

twine

sewing kit

Leather gloves

Aluminum pot

steel skillet

aluminum "bread pan"

ceramic cup

folding knife

sheath knife

spoon

waxed cotton bags for food

Pendleton Wool shirt

lightweight wool shirt

wool socks (x2)

silk pajamas

wool underwear

cotton bandana

Clothing worn:

linen shirt

wool underwear

wool pants

wool felt hat

wool socks

LL Bean Boots

silk scarf


Food List

Cornmeal

Flour w/baking powder & salt added

Oatmeal

beef jerky

bouillon cubes

dried mushrooms

dried vegetable medley

deviled ham


powdered milk

coffee

O'Henry candy bars

Oreos

brown sugar

raisins

dried apples

nuts

waxed cheese


As far as the trip itself, the thought crossed my mind to hike the original trail as it existed in 1924. But after hiking the existing trail numerous times I am keenly aware of why the trail has been re-routed. Most of the time it was to bypass large flooded sections, in a few cases to reduce paved road walking, and in at least one instance to avoid private land. The last of which would mean it was impossible to hike the original trail even if I wanted to. I also chose to hike SouthBound starting from the Lake Placid Train Station as that is my preferred direction. 


When I was fully packed and set out, my pack with 4 days of food and water was just under 30 pounds.

An incomplete bibliography:
The Boy Scout Hike Book by Edward Cave 1913
Camp and Trail by Stewart Edward White 1907
The Campers Handbook by Thomas Hiram Holding 1908
Camping Out by Warren Hastings Miller 1918
Camp Cookery by Horace Kephart 1910
Hints for Camping and Walking by John Mead Gould 1877
Woodcraft by G.W. Sears 1884


My Journal:

Much Thanks to buddy Ian who gave me a ride to/from my car and to Jennifer who met me at the train station to see me off.

Day 1: June 19th "1924"

Departed train station in Lake Placid @12:30pm. Hiked the road to the trailhead on Averyville Rd and signed in at the register. [original trailhead contniued for another 3 miles]. As I began my trek into the woods I hiked slowly and deliberately so as to not tire myself out. The trail was in a great condition, weather was partial clouds with an occassional slight breeze. I passed by 3 hikers heading northbound about 45 minutes in. The expected flooded area was larger than the last time I came through. Crossed on a log upstream and the next flooded area on the beavers dam. Trail became less and less maintained as I headed south. Took longer than expected to get to Wanika Falls, the timing was right with my pace, it just felt longer. The minor uphill was tiring for me; not in as good of shape as my last time. 

The next half mile was even more tiresome. The remaing few miles for the day might take longer than expected. Typical NPT style, I stepped into some deep mud fortuntaley my boot stayed on. After the "fern hill" I lost the trail tread for a bit. Knowing its general heading I kept on the same direction until I was on the tread again. I stopped for some water by a nice stream. I did not fill up my canteen as I knew there was a nicer spot closer to Moose Pond lean-to. As the trail widened and headed more downhill, I regained some energy. Sooner than expected I was at the "twin falls" drainage a quarter mile from my desination for the night. I filled the canteen all the way and drank a few cups. I sat for a bit enjoying the cool water and the falls. Arrived at the lean-to @6:15, about fifteen minutes ahead of schedule. I had the area to myself so I set up camp and made some dinner, followed by cleanup and a rest. A small smudge fire to ward of the bugs.

Day 2 July 20th Saturday

 Chilly night, but not too bad. The coolness kept away the bugs. During the night I heard loons and the slap of a beaver tail letting me know I was not truly alone on the pond. Made a cup of coffee and was soon on the trail. 8am. The next few miles I expected to be rough and they were, although I had been through worse. The external wooden frame pack is not conducive for climbing over and under blowdown so this activity was more tiring than usual. A lot more mud to contend with today, the LL Bean boots dealt with it well. Where the trail intersected Roaring Brook a mile or two before Duck Hole, I took a long break. These rivers and brooks are very peaceful. My itinerary includes a lot of breaks to enjoy the trail and also for me to rest and hydrate. I took another long break at Duck Hole, the new lean-to [now the old one since the original was taken down and replaced with a new one further North]. 


About 11am I was again on trail soon to be on the "longest 3 miles of the NPT', at least that is how it feels. It seems to take forever from the Ward Brook junction to the hermitage. I stopped for snack near Mountain Pond. A "trail runner" passed me heading South, not without first glancing at my gear. Next was the church section named by my friend Andy... pointless ups and downs. This is what makes these miles seem to take forever. Arrived at the hermitage @1:30. A quick "nod" to Noah and moved along. A couple backpackers heading North asked how far to the hermitage, I replied "about 50 yards'. One of them asked if I was "the hermit", we both chuckled. In no time I was at Ouluska lean-to. I always forget just how close to the hermitage the lean-to is. A shorter break here only 20 minutes, just long enough to write in the journal. [need to bring pens on my next visit].

Only about 2.5 miles to my destination for the night. Should get there early enough to do some chores; bathe and wash clothing. Will use the skillet to make dinner and possibly pre-cook breakfast& lunch for tomorrow. When I arrived the trail runner was exiting the water after a swim. We talked for a bit, he was just doing the Loop. I gave him intel on the remaining 15 miles and why I was dressed the way I was.

Took a bath and washed clothes. A lot of debris had piled up near the water access, so the main swimming area needed to be accessed from below. Back at the lean-to I took care of a couple blisters and set up camp. Made a ham and cornbread hash for dinner and pre-cooked a blueberry/raisin biscuit bread for tomorrow. The blueberries were found by the river. With some of the best and worst parts of the trail behind me, and the uphills being a real energy drag I am not looking forward to the big climb after Long Lake. I have scheduled extra time for the trail, so I might opt to take an extra day or two. So far I am still on schedule.


Sun Day 3 July 21st.

Woke up in the middle of the night on my butt. The hammock ripped apart. I landed hard. Lowered the cheesecloth mosquito netting and slept the remainder of the night on the ground. With the blanket over my head, I did not realize the sun had already risen. Must have slept ok even on the ground. A few rain drops as I packed up for the morning. Not enough to soak things, just enough to wet the leaves. While packing up I noticed the canvas on my pack was beginning to tear in a few places; some dry rot coupled with the weight and stress from the hiking. I guess my 50 year old body is handling the trail better than the 70+ year old gear. 

Not sure what time I got on the trail, but soon was at Cold River #4. Took a short break. I had contemplated continuing downstream to the horse ford over the river like I usually do, but opted instead to use the suspension bridges. 

[near the ford over the Cold River]

After Shattuck Clearing the trail follows old roads, this is one of my favorite sections of trail. Not just because of beauty but also the history. Nothing really special here, just a nice spot. Took a break near my favorite part and contemplated the history. Prior to the construction of the NPT, these tote roads were the access from Long Lake to the Cold River. In fact much of the NPT was built using existing roads from logging, and other uses. I find myself thinking the trail is more wilderness now than in 1924. The trails are footpaths instead of wagon roads. The buildings on the trail are simply lean-tos and outhouses, while in 1924 there were hunting camps with wood stoves, and on Long Lake, (the family name escapes me) offered a place to stay before heading into the Cold River. The matriarch (Maude?) was known to make excellent sandwiches for the travelers. This paradox also existed on most of the rest of the trail. One might argue that in 1924 the trail would have been easier since it was mostly a dirt road and not a wilderness foot path as it exists now.

After my break which included drying out my socks which had wicked water from the wet brush into my boots, I looked again at my pack and noticed the tears growing. On some of the uphills I was feeling a slight pain in my hip. I wondered if it was due to the boots slipping on wet leaves or something else. With the extra days in my pocket, I figured I would get to Plumbley's and take a better look at my gear and the mileages. Only 5 miles. I already mentioned it, but this section between Cold River and Long Lake is one of my favorites. No real views, just a pine and hemlock needle carpeted trail upon an old roadway. I calculated options as I walked. I scared up a grouse along the way. The uphills are starting to cause my hip to ache more, although they are not making me as tired. I just swapped out one physical inconvenience for another. I noticed the pack likes to ride up on my belt which makes it rather comfortable. How long did it take for folks to integrate a hip belt to backpacks?

While crossing Pine Brook, I slipped on a rock and almost fell. Stepping into the deeper water I was able to maintain my balance. I rarely slip, and never to this degree. While the LL Bean boots do great in the mud, they are a bit slippery on wet rocks and roots. They are very quiet on the forest floor, allowing me to see more wildlife like the grouse earlier. My mind wandered, and I contemplated whether the trail was trying to tell me something. At Plumbley's I founbd it empty. It was still early though. Opted to stay here since there was a cell signal. I boiled some water and made a vegetable soup with dumplings.

While sitting in the lean-to listening to the boats on the lake, With the loss of the hammock for sleeping and the canvas pack beginning to tear more, I concluded it was not going to be enjoyable to continue much farther. If the pack fails, carrying the gear would be a disaster. I had planned on hiking the 140 miles of trail for her 100th birthday. I suppose 40 miles would a good enough honor. Or I could return for the remaining 100 miles with a different pack.  I called my buddy Ian to see if he could pick me up in Long Lake. I let others also know I would be exiting the trail at Long Lake.


On a postive note, the vegetable stew with dumplings was really good. Some ham or herbs would have made it over the top. A nice breeze off the lae is keeping the bugs at bay. Enjoying the final evening before my ride. All of the evenings had been great, too bad it won't continue. But I will have more adventures in my future.

Monday July 22nd

Sleeping on the lean-to floor with no pad is horrible. I wonder if this is why the early lean-tos had no wooden floor but were on the soft ground. Made even more comfortable with years of spruce boughs used as bedding. This practice is not allowed anymore in the Adirondacks. My right hip was especially pained sleeping on the floor. Ride plans changed, Iam would not be available until tomorrow, so I would spend another night on the trail. Plan is to hike the 6.5  miles to Catlin Bay, then only 1.5 to the road tomorrow. With only a few miles for the day, I lazed around with coffee and relaxed by the lake. 

When I finally headed out I stopped by the "neighbors" in the other lean-to. Elizabeth, her husband and son were from Brooklyn. They had been coming to Long Lake to canoe  for many years. Elizabeth was quite interested in my historical trek. We bid farewll around 9:30. 

A beautiful day for walking, but wow did my hip hurt. I was relying on my hiking stick to walk up even the slightest of climbs. Then it dawned on me, when my hammock broke I must have landed on something causing my hip pain. Makes sense now as the pain feels like an inflamed bruise hurting more on the uphills (of course). Walking slowly and quietly I saw quite a few deer along this section. One stopped in the woods and watched me for a bit. Wow am I walking slow; the hip pain is really slowing me down. I suppose it was a good thing the ride plans changed as I would not have been able to make it to the road at the agreed upon time. There is no way I would have been able to do the next 100 miles with this pain either, even with the extra days. I stopped at one of the many springs along the way to fill up and take a break. Cold water is always nice. Looking forward to a swim at Catlin Bay. Bugs are more apparent today, but not too bad. Possibly because I am just moving so slow.

I pause thinking I hear a deer huffing at me, a moment later I realize it is the sound of a hand saw a short distance away. I soon came to a few folks clearing trail. I thanked them as I passed. Some nice clear trail for a while, until it wasn't. Quite a bit of blowdown to content with. Usually not too much of an issue, but with this pack and my hip pain traversing the jungle gym of branches was a painful chore. It was especially bad when I would duck under and have to then stand up. This would not have been possible without my hiking stick as an aid.

Took another break at Kelly's Point lean-to to eat an O'Henry candy bar. Not sure if the hotel was in operation in 1924, but this would be just another example of how the trail has become wilder. Between Kelly's and Hidden Cove there is a section of trail which runs right along the lake. I call this "windy cove" because there is always a nice breeze coming off the lake here. I stopped for a bit at the inlet creek just before the cove to wipe off sweat and enjoy the breeze. Windy cove is also a repository for all kinds of debris washing up from the lake. Most of it driftwood, but a lot of parts from docks and camps.

The trail then swings uphill and away from the lake deeper into the woods. There is a "newsih" sign for the Hidden Cove lean-to. Prior to the signage, one used to have just know when to turn off the trail. Not long after the familiar ascent and descent to Catlin Bay #2. Finding the lean-to empty, I crossed the inlet heading to #1. The connector to the island was underwater, so I backtracked to #2. Crossing the inlet boulders reminded me of the giant boulder fields in the Wind River Range, just on a much smaller scale. I dropped off my pack at the lean-to and headed to the lake for a swim. As I ambled to the lake, my hip hurt a lot. My hiking stick was doing a lot more than I even thought. I filled my coffee pot and took a swim. The water was warm, and thesandy bottom felt good on my feet. From the water's edge I could hear voices from the other lean-to, so it must have been occupied.

Back up to the lean-to, the hip was not as bad. The water may have helped, or just the rest. I started a fire to boil water and hung a clotheline for my laundry and just relaxed. One of my blisters had some sand in it, so I carefully extracted it and covered it with tape (adhesive plaster). Made a late lunch over the remaining coals; a cheese filled biscuit. While the baking powder biscuits are fast to cook, they are not nearly as good as the yeast camp bread we make on our canoe  trips. Of course those take significantly longer. Boat traffic picking up on a lake in the afternoon. Just like snowmobiles in the winter. Time it just right, and hikers can have the lake to themsleves. The lean-tos have been very clean along the lake. Sitting in Catlin #2 I am overlooking the "swamp". The lake breeze is keeping the bugs away. I am reminded of my first thru hike before the trail routed over the rocky inlet and passed right through the swamp. There was not much remaining of the bridge when I did that crossing. I doubt if any currently remains. 



A fellow with a packraft came up from the lake. He is doing part of the Northern Forest Canoe trail with the raft. I invited him to spend the night at the lean-to as the sky was beginning to hint at rain. He set up his tent nearby and we chatted for a while. We were visited by a guy from across the inlet who was leading a group of teenagers on a canoe trip. We all chatted a bit. As the rains came, my compatriot opted to move into the lean-to. 

Tuesday July 23rd

Only a mile & a half to the road to meet Ian. I packed up slow and walked even slower. I was a about 30 minutes early. Was able to text Ian to let him know I was there. He was delayed with traffic closures.


Epilogue:




Much thanks to my good friend Ian for the rides and all my other friends and family for the support and encouragement. Love you all.

Wednesday, July 3, 2024

Start of the Summer -Lake Lila

 

With 5 days at my disposal, I made plans with D.Denn to paddle Lake Lila. He was available for 3 nights so I would shorten my drive by spending the first night along the Raquette River near Jamestown falls. Just a drive up campsite but it would be my first time camping in the Raquette River Wild Forest. It was rainy the entire drive up as expected and really came down hard when I stopped for a late breakfast near Star Lake. When I arrived at the campsite the rain had stopped. It would come and go in little bits all afternoon and evening. Over night it poured. I slept well in the hammock.


An early wake-up with the sun allowed me to stop for breakfast on the way. I let Dan know I would probably be a bit early which would allow me to dry out the tarp. The road into Lila was long. I forgot how ong it was to get there. Forty-five minutes on a dirt road with a max speed of 15mph. There were a few cars at the put-in, the register showed most were leaving today or tomorrow. I unrolled my tarp and laeyd it out to dry. I carried canoe, paddles and fishing gear the 0.3 miles down to the beach. By the time I returned, the tarp was mostly dry, so I packed it up. While I was readying the last of my gear Dan arrived. 

He brought his canoe down to the water and I the rest of my gear. The lake was choppy and the sky dark to the south and west. While Dan was making his second trip, the sky opened up. I stood under a tree which blocked most of the rain. It was short lived. The lake was still choppy as we set out. We first planned on site #3 in a protected cove since #4 was occupied and the lake was choppier towards the west. Even some whitecaps. I fished a little in the cove and appropriated some firewood from the resident beaver lodge. The occupants of #4 departed so we moved in. They left a lot of trash. At least the stiff breeze would keep the skeeters away. 


With camp set up and a small smoky fore for when the breeze let up we settled into camp. Since both of us were up early we knew it would be an early bedtime. Another rain storm over night but I slept soundly.

In the morning the skeeters were relentless. With a the fire going we were able to smoke most away, but any distance from the fire was miserable. The lake was rather calm so we ventured out for some exploring and fishing. Dan took towards rhe islands and I the Northern shore. No luck fishing. I found the lean-to un-occupied. Even after this trip I still have to spend the night in this one. A good reason to return to the lake. The shoreline where Chris and I had made landfall to hike Frederica mountain years ago was not as obvious as it was more than a dozen years ago. The sound of trucks and thr glint of the sun reflecting off the chrome gave a way just how close the dirt road contniued around the lake to the private land.

As it neared lunch time I paddled towards the islands figuring on the leeward side for my paddle back to camp. As I passed near Spruce Island I ran into Dan who had made an executive decision to move camp to site #20. This would be closer to Shingle Shanty Brook and was protected by the island. However the site was on a peninsula which allowed the wind to pass through it. A beautiful spot in a pine forest. I headed back to #4 to pack up my gear and moved in to #20. The afternoon winds picked up which kept the bugs away. 

Near camp was a small cliff overlooking the lake to the west. This would be a good vantage point for the sunset. There were two landing spots, one on each side of the peninsula. The campsite is one of the best on the lake. It was early enough in the season that getting firewood was not too difficult. As a late lunch, I tested out a recipe for Chef Corso; "Bagel and Lox Dip". Was definitely a winner, although probably more of an appetizer than a full meal.


The recipe has been posted to Outdoor Eats: https://outdooreats.com/recipe/bagel-lox-smoked-salmon-dip/

With the winds picking up, we stayed in camp relaxing in the chairs with some beverages. It is possible I even took a small nap while sitting there. After dinner we moved the chairs up to the cliff to watch the sunset. Moments after the sun dropped below the horizon, the skeeters arrived. We quickly moved back to the smoky confines of the campfire. Surprised I was able to stay awake as long as I did.


The nights sleep was glorious. Only awoke once in the middle. Cloudy so no stars which also meant the comet P13 "something" would not be visible to the North. Unfortunately every night was clouded over, so we never did get to see it. In the morning I tried to stay vey quiet. I did not realize Dan was already up. He had coffee down by the beach. After breakfast we set out on the lake again. The water was like glass. The lake was quiet in the morning. The silence only interupted by the sound of the paddle cutting through the water. 


The morning paddle was serene. No luck fishing except for a small one near the Harrington Brook inlet. I spotted the portage trail to the left of the rapids. Another truck came down the orad and stopped momentarily at the bridge. I paddled into a shallow cove with a beach. I considered a swim, but the water was so shallow I would have needed to lie down just to get submerged.Instead I took a short break on the beach. Continuing on around themost westerly island, Dan had come from the other side. We chatted a bit before we both took our separate ways back to camp for lunch. 

Later that day, we paddled down the peninsula towards Shingle Shanty. A beaver dam blocked further progress unless we wanted to exit the canoes to get around it. We opted instead to check out the rest of the cove. A loon was in the area. We had heard her earlier in the trip. She popped up not far from my canoe but dove again soon before I could ready my camera. The eastern shore of the lake was not deep but rather rocky. I sharp eye was needed to not bottom out. The bass like these structures. We caught numerous small rock bass in the shallows, and few decent sized smallmouth. I had a really nice one about 11-12 inches. It was nice to finally feel the tug on the line.

Dan's water had run out so he was heading back to camp, so I joined him. It was getting close to dinner anyway. We counted out our remaining beer ration. We had a spare 4-pack at the car for an emergency if needed. We pulled out the maps to try to plan our trip for next year. Made dinner and relaxed by the fire. Stayed up as long as I could for the last night. Again I slept great. 

Coffee in the the morning but no breakfast. We did not need to leave early, but we did. A quiet, slow paddle back to the put-in. Talked to a guide from Raquette Outfitters whio was waiting on his clients. We talked a bit about lean2rescue and some of the Rangers/Foresters we both knew. The the long drive back on the dirt road.

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

WBL w/Bill, Justin, and Moody

 Joined Justin on a trip he has made a few times. Bill also made the trek as did Moody, but just for the day. After signing in at the register I expected to start bushwhacking but instead there was an obvious path. 

I asked if this was in Bill's book and do not recall the response. He did mention he took Barbara M on this path when he first took over the series as she had not known about this path.

It wasn't before the pretty brook came into view. There are falls and cascades upstream, but the path and our eventual destination did not follow the brook. Streamside was a nice spot for a lunch break. 

We continued on, the weather was nice. In the 60s with enough of a breeze to keep the bugs away. The path had been going uphill slightly and now began a steeper climb. When the path eventually became obscured, flagging helped guide us. 

After passing through a short draw we came to a marshy pond. Our next saddle to pass through was on the other side so we made our way around counter-clockwise. Every once in a while signs of old trail clearing were apparent; cut logs mostly.

Following the other side of the pond, we needed the second drainage to follow up and over the saddle to Birch. This drainage had multiple splits but was easy enough as we just went up. Mostly open woods.

As we approached the saddle we tried to find where justin had camped with no luck. Also did not find it on the return trip.

The drop down from the saddle was not as prominent as the climb and we were soon at our destination. Water level was low as we stood on the grassy area which had been underwater at some point. The low level allowed us to follow the lake edge rather easily. At the outlet was a nice flat rocky area.


From here we explored down the outlet a ways, finding the location of a now dispersed hunting camp about a quarter mile away. Some artifacts still remained. 

Back at the lake we looked for a place to camp. We finally chose a spot on the N. Shore. Moody headed back. Bill, Justin and I had a nice relaxing camp for the rest of the afternoon and evening. The black flies did appear shortly, but a smudge fire helped.

I am surprised I was able to stay up as long as I did considering how early I was on the road. When I finally climbed into my hammock it was not long before I was asleep.

The night time temps were quite cool. Great for sleeping. With the sky being clear, I did mot deploy the tarp so I was able to see the stars through the tops of the trees. In the early morning a pink cloud was directly over head. It moved eastward as the sun rose.

We arose slowly, had coffee breakfast and packed up even slower. Whe opted to continue around the lake. The shore line was easy, but soon we found ourselves in thick brush inland. I pushed back down to the shoreline and navigated over the skeletons of the downed trees. 

We did not pause much on the return trip. Except for a few small climbs through the draws it was mostly downhill. Back at the register we noted Moody had signed out a little after 5pm. A short bit of real trail and we were back at the cars.

Great trip. Good to get together with the guys again (and Bella, I forgot she joined us too.)

Monday, May 27, 2024

Annual Trail Maintainence on the NPT

 While I have historically gone to the Cold River for Memorial Day weekend, I needed to get to my section of the NPT and do some maintainence. Stopped at Chef Darrel's Diner in Blue Mountain Lake on the way. Always good food, and Chef is fantastic guy. This was also the first long drive in the new car. Nothing like taking a brand new car 30 minutes down a dirt road. Guess it is a good way to break it in. Hopefully just a figure of speech.


The day was already starting to warm up as I readied my gear. I was the only car at the trailhead; unsurprisingly. Also no one had signed in at the trail register except for the DEC Trail crew earlier in the week. The first few miles were all clear due to their work. Evidence of the cutting and clearing was quite noticeable. I stopped at the spring box to fill my water bottle like usual. At the previously flooded section, the materials for the new bridge had been delivered. This was also the furthest extent of the trail crew's work. The next mile and a half looked like a hurricane had passed through. At the 5 mile mark is the junction to the Sucker Brook trail where my stewardship repsonsibility begins. I headed towards the Colvin Brook lean-to a mile away and cleared the trail to the river. From there I crossed the river and inspected the lean-to. The water damage has increased in the corner. 



With the little use this spot gets, it is not at the top of the list for repair. The few who do use the lean-to take very good care of the spot. I took photos of the journal entries since my last visit and will upload them to the Colvin Brook Lean-to online journal colvinbrook.blogspot.com. This is my 21st century version of the transcribed journals at the Ouluska lean-to.

Back a the NPT I headed towards Cedar Lake. Not as much blowdownm to clear as I expected. Whatever system came through the N-S portion of the NPT between Wakely and here somehow spared this area for the most part. The next 4 miles was clearing some blowdown and digging out drainages. So tiring taking the pack on and off. By the time I get to the woodstove campsite I am almost out of gas and still have 2 miles more to go. While I do the best I can, it never seems to be enough. The hand tools cannot take care of the largest of blowdowns so reroutes are the only other option. The trail is beginning to increase in mileage with all the big S turns. winding aorund the obstacles. As my energy drops, I skip over some downed trees which can be easily stepped over thinking I will cut them the next time through. The one spring hole I dug out a few years ago was still holding good water in the catch so I filled up my water bottle again. When i would stop, the black flies would swarm around me staying just inches away from the permethrin applied force field.


A couple was at Cedar #1 lean-to, so I pushed on to Beaver Pond. I suppose one more mile I could do; I had already done 11. Surpisingly the Beaver Pond lean-to was empty except for the pile of trash left in the firepit. Reading the shelter log, I might be the first person here in 2024. The fallen branches all around the lean-to and trail also hint an no visitors since last fall. A light rain began as I set up camp. I lit a smoldering fire to keep bugs at bay and settled in for the rest of the evening. The rain subsided, but the clouds remained so not much of a sunset. I barely made it to hiker midnight before I turned in.


Did not sleep that great until the second half of the night. After breakfast I planned out my day. I would search around Beaver Pond a bit and parts of Cedar Lake which I had not explored in the past. Did a bit of fishing too later in the afternoon. The black flies by the water did not make it enjoyable. At least the day was more relaxing than the previous. Had a nice little campfire to cap off my second night. 


The winds picked up and some rain came in the early morning. It stopped by the time I awoke. Slpet much better so was up early. Knwoing that rain was in order for the day, I was hoping to get some miles in before it came. I was only a mile or so down the trail before it started. Not a heavy rain, just an long annoying one. With much of the trail in need of side-cutting the little rain would soak me as I pushed through the wet undergrowth. Even when the rain subsided, the trail was still wet enough to keep me from drying off. At least it was cool, and no bugs. The first 5 miles takes longer than the seocnd 5 on the way back to the car due to the trail being an old road from woodstove to Wakely. Was back to the car by 10 am. I stopped again at Chef Darrells diner on the way out. I highly recommend his chicken fried steak. 

Sunday, April 28, 2024

Post Wedding -Hour Pond

My good buddy was getting married Friday evening and I would not miss it for the world. After work, I drove to Latham and checked into my hotel right down the street from the venue. I had looked to see if there was a place nearby to camp. There was, but it being a place I was not familiar with, I opted for the hotel instead of hiking in the dark to an unknown location.

The wedding was fantastic. The officiant entertained us as well as performed his duties in a delightful way. 

Congrats Keri & Justin.

On Saturday I drove to the trailhead only to find the IP road was gated. Had to switch to a plan B location. No big deal as I have plenty of options. Looking back I should have planned a different spot from the get-go. I pulled into the parking area near 13th lake. A few cars already here. Not surprising as the lake is a good fishing/camping spot and the nearby mountains are easily accessible from this trailhead.

I loaded up my pack and ventured down the gravel trail. Right after the trail register was a brand new ADA compliant outhouse. Soon the trail switched to rocks, roots and mud. Was not that bad, just no longer wheelchair accessible. I passed by some campsites; in use and vacant. A hiker came up from behind and I let him pass. Some boats and canoes on the lake fishing.

The trail meandered along the shoreline only heading up to avoid major wet or steep sections. Soon the junction to Peaked Mtn and the continuation of my trail around 13th lake. A couple swollen streams cascading from the hillside to cross. About midway down the lake, the trail turned up a draw towards my destination. A long steep climb marred by considerable blowdown. The trail was well marked and in some places the tread was obvious. Still, it did not seem like the trail got much use. The creek through the draw was very nice. Some neat cascades and pools. Open hardwoods and giant boulders on the hillside.Reminded me of the NPT in the Silver Lake Wilderness. Evetually I made it to the saddle and headed down to the next junction. From here a major tree had come down obscuring the trail I was on, the junction signs were broken and scattered. I placed the signs against neaby stumps. A short break and then North to Hour Pond.

The trail here seemed to be an old roadway. It approached a beaver pond whose dam has significantly increased the natural size. The trail used the 100m dam to skirt the depths. I picked up a stick to aid in balance. The temp was in the high 40s and the sun was shining, but I had no interest in taking a swim.

At the far side, I leaned my balancing stick against a tree for the return trip. The trail swung around and soon Hour Pond was visible, just barely. A sign for the lean-to guided me away from the water and slightly up hill. There was plenty of downed wood in the area so a fire would be easy.

I set up camp and gathered a bit of wood. Sun was still shining, but I expectrd this to change. Had some lunch and poked around the pond a bit. The shelter log shows the atea gets little use. Also a crew regularly comes in clearing the trail. They have some work to do after this past winter. Much appreciated. A few mentions of fishing.



The wind was picking up which made being down by the water unpleasant as it was strong enough to be throwing water sideways. When it would calm, I would head down to throw a line in the water but the winds would immediatly pick back up. Instead I checked out the other campsite down by he southern end. A large area suitable for many tents. The site is hidden from the main trail and protected in the trees.

After dinner and an unremarkable sunset, the stars emerged. A saw a momentary bright flash, possibly a fireball meteor from the Lyrids but cannot be certain. I was soon in bed watching the nying fire. 

I awoke a few times overnight. The mostly full moon illuminated the area such that a headlamp was not necessary. Also a huge wind storm came through. Certainly this toppled some trees in the area. I tried to sleep in, at least it was light when I got up. 

Made some coffee and packed up. The trail out was quick. Mostly downhill. The wind had finally calmed down.