Sunday, August 21, 2022

The Oswegatchie -"Part Way Up"

 Thurs Aug 11th

On Monday I finished the the NPT going Northbound. Having no desire to turn around and hike it all over again back to my car, I caught a ride with my friend Kalie back to Northville. I picked up my re-supply and some PBR and went to the Deerland Carry lean-to. After driving back home I cleaned up and made my next plans. I decided to sit a canoe for few days instead of walking. There are a few lean-tos along the Oswegatchie which I have not stayed in, and it has been quite a few years since I paddled it, so the plan was made.

I put in at Inlet around 10:30 after noticing "Turtle" had signed in and returned from a trip "part way up". I signed in similarly. I paddled slow as I was not in any hurry although rain was expected later in the day I figured to be at my lean-to before then. The water was significantly higher than I remembered, but that was so long ago. Approaching noon I had still not passed by High Rock and the sky opened up. A brief sprinkle followed by torrents of rain. I had barely enough time to pull the canoe into the weeds and put on my rain gear. I could hear thunder far off in the distance. As i passed high rock I knew it was only 1.5 miles upstream to the Griffins Rapids lean-to. Earlier some paddlers informed me that the lean-to was vacant.

About half way to the lean-to the rain slowed then stopped. The sun emerged for a short period of time. Reaching thee lean-to, it was indeed vacant so I unloaded the canoe and stowed it as though rains would come again. I gathered a small amount fo wood before I even took off my rain gear and water shoes. Not much, just enough to get me through the night and the next morning. The mosquitos soon emerged, not a surprise after the rain. I made a small fire for smudge and to build a base of coals for dinner later.


A couple paddled by. They had stopped at an earlier campsite to wait out the rain. Instead of a late lunch, I opted instead to have an early dinner. I cooked up some potatoes from the garden and some frozen string beans, from last years garden and grilled a small steak. I figured this would be enough to get me through to tomorrow. I forgot how good fresh potatoes tasted, so creamy.

All afternoon quick rain showers would come and go. The heavist shower was joined by the sun shining. Strange combination. Dinner is done so I am on to step two. Again the rain, intermittent and light with thunder all around. The rumbles sound like cloud to cloud discharges. Momemnts after that thought entered my mind, a bright flash then a boom. Approximately 2 miles away I estimated. Rain is starting to come heavy now. I am nice and secure under the roof.

Friday Aug 12th

Chilly overnight, had to put on my knit hat. Very nice sleeping warm under the down quilt instead of sweating and suboptimal sleep. Some very strange dreams also evidence of a good nights sleep. Up before the sun, but went back to sleep foa little bit more.

When I finally got up for good I could see the sun trying to fight her way through the dense fog over the river and surrounding alders. The trees are still dripping, slowly. Remnants of last evenings rain. I made some coffee and sat in my chair with the quilt over me.

A few hours before I departed for the trip I received a recipe from Chef Corso to test. I had previously tested a no-cook recipe in the backyard campsite. this one seems interesting especially with the raspberry jam option. A Breakfast Ramen Bomb, he calls it. Bacon, Ramen noodles, hashed browns and jam. I have enough of the ingredients to make this twice, so the first test will be as written. I was surprised the jam didn't turn the whole thing into a pink blob. I also was not sure I used enough as it completely disappeared into the rest of the ingredients. It was quite good! The sweetness of the jam was just enough to complement the richness of the bacon. The starchy water finished out the sauce.The jam was just enough to be part of the flavor profile without standing out on its own. My second trest tomorrow will see how the texture changes if I cook the potatoes in the bacon fat first to crisom them up and then add the pre-cooked ramen. I am doubtful the difference will be noticeable for the extra effort.

By 8am the sun was high enough to have burned away the fog. The wet alders are twinkling in the sun like nighttime stars. This reminded me of the almost full moon last night reflecting off the river illuminating the lean-to at some point in the middle of the night.

I think today will be nice and short. 1,5 miles to the next lean-to. If I time it right, I should arrive after anyone who camped there has left but well before any new arrivals. There is a a springhole which should provide some fishing opportunities.

The river continued winding around. This is by far the windiest (is that a word?) river ever. The current is strong too. Trying to take a phot while paddling upstream is a challenge. Two beaver dams with a breach to paddle though had too much water volume for me to get up and through. I could get just up over it, and then would stall with all my effort being used to not get pushed back downstream. So these two dams I needed to exit the canoe to get past. Downstream will be easy, just take it slow.

At Cage Lake Springhole lean-to the occupants were still there. I asked if they were spending another night and whether I could join them. They invited me to shore and let me know they were heading downstream in a while. Matt and Barret were their names, also from the Rochester area. Usually a group of four but prior committments halved their number. We talked for a while and they eventually packed up and headed to high rock for their last night so as to get out early tomorrow.

I tossed a line into the water but something is wrong with the bail on the reel. I think the spring may be broken. will have to make a proper assessment when I get home and have the tools to take it apart. I tried to get by by manually closing the bail, but it was too awkward. So instead I made some lunch and read my book. Later in the day, the sky turned to overcast clouds and the breeze picked up momentarily.

Closer to dinner the air was still and the blanket of clouds had moved to the east. A family of four paddled by heading upstream. Their dog let out a quick bark alerting them to my presence but they had already seen me and waved. I set aside some wood for the morning and had plenty to enjoy a bigger campfire tonight. Time for some step two.



Sat Aug 13th

Apparently my bod clock is still set to awaken at 5:30 regardless. Was not as chilly las tnight but still a comfortable nights sleep. The sky a an orange hue to the east hinting at a nice sunrise. Slight fog over the river too. I thnk I will paddle up the outlet a ways into the marsh before i head downstream later. Probably won't be able to get to far anyway.

I started the fire to get water on for coffee. I had to pause my work as the sun made her appearance. this was photo worthy. I am sure others on the river are appreciating this too. But right now it is just me and a few birds chirping away.

While photographing the sunrise I remembers the local beaver had swum by at dusk last evening. He dove under when he spotted me. I coulkd hear his splashing shenanigans earlier up river around the bend. His splashes were the last sounds I remember before I dozed off. 

Made a giant cup of coffee. Sipping it as I listen to a woodpecker off in the distance and muted rushing of the river's water interupted with the occasional crackle of my cooking fire. The air is still, the movement of the clouds is barely noticeable unless one stares for some time. A perfect morning.

Sun is getting higher. Will need to put on my sunglasses for the paddle downstream. As expected the extra effort attempting to crisp the potatoes was not noticeable and the paddle up to the marsh ended quickly. I had all day to go downstream less than 7 miles. I floated most of it, using the paddle just to stay the course. Knowing it was 1.5 miles to the previous lean-to and floating only took me an hour it was an easy calculation to determine the average speed of the current.



Running the breached dams was easy enough, and it was nice to just float down the river. The last couple miles I paddled more. Beautiful day to be on the river.



Oh, and the recipe from Chef Corso is on his website: https://outdooreats.com/recipe/breakfast-ramen-bomb/


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