Essex Chain + (a few more waters)

 The Essex Chain of Lakes has been on my list since it was acquired by the State a few years ago. I have avoided it so far for a variety of reasons. First, I assumed the new acquisition would be quite popular at first with interest waning. Secondly the need to get a permit ahead of time to claim a campsite (unseen). And lastly no fires. Since it has been a few years and the latter two reasons no longer exist due to land management changes I opted to check it out. 

The idea started while conversing with Dan (@dennhandmadeknives) about a potential paddling trip. He gave a couple of suggestions and the Essex Chain was on the list; he also had not been there). So we decided the Essex it would be. Having 5 days at my disposal, and utilizing 3 of them with Dan I would also be able to check out some other waters; potentially Cheney, Boreas, Newcomb were all nearby.

I met Dan at the parking area a quarter mile from the put-in for Deer Pond. We were the only ones in the lot, not surprising for a Tuesday. The last entry in the register was from Sunday, a group of nine departed with the comment "not recommended". My initial thought being it was likely the group size which made things difficult. After signing in, we proceeded to the put-in.The single carry with canoe over the shoulder and full pack was awkward. We decided to double carry the next one. The winds were stiff so we pushed west a little ways and then let the wind blow us back towards the portage. The carry began straightforward enough and then intersected the old road complex. It was well marked with signs and obvious foor tread. The old roads were grown in too. The double carry was better.

Third Lake also had some wind. Even with the likelihood of having the lake to ourselves we felt it prudent to get a campsite first. First option was the lean-to at the former Gooley Club. Was easy paddling going with the wind. We passed between  a couple islands and rounded a point with what appeared to be an osprey's nest atop a dead tree. We checked out the bay on the opposite side of the point looking for the lean-to. Careful inspection of the map showed it to be much farther to the east. The watre was a bit more protected here. Soon the lean-to came into view. We made our landing on the sandy bottom and set up camp. Lunch first. I had a whole sub sandwich from Stewarts and offered half to Dan. He accepted. After listing the "ingredients" to ensure no allergies he replied, "you nailed it". He then gifted me with a handmade knife. He said it was a blemished product and would not be able to sell it. A beautiful little piece with a spalted maple handle. It would get the chance to cut cheese and sausage the next day.

A few "step twos" later and camp set-up we collected some wood while checkeing out the immediate vicinity. The road/trail was just up the hill from the lean-to. A buch of remnant artifacts from the old lodge were strewn about; bottles, metal buckets, a cedar tree with what looked like an antenna near the top. A little fishing here and there with only pumpkinseed sunfish taiking the bait. Some almost the sixe of the lure itself. Had some good conversation throughout the afternoon/evening. Hiker midnight came up quickly. We both crashed in the lean-to. Was a great sunset from the boat landing.

Wednesday morning, I was up at my normal early time. Dan was as well. Not sure how much earlier he was awake before me. Some coffee and then we discussed the day's plan. Was supposed to be a hot one. We figured to head east to the upper lakes in the chain exploring and fishing, have lunch somewhere and then come back to camp. Only more pumpkinseed in Third Lake but it was nice having the line get tight every once in a while. The connector the Fourth lake was pretty stream, shallow with a lot of lilypads. A white sign greeted us as we entered into Fourth. Dan paddled the southern shore line, while I paddled the North. He checked out the campsite on the shore. I spotted an old picnic table on a nearby point. I surmised it was from the Club days. 

The connector between Fourth & Fifth Lakes was a culvet under the road. The culvert was plugged up with debris so we had to exit our canoes and carry over the road. Immediately to the North was the gate and the (CP3 accessible) campsite. I expexted Fifth Lake to be much larger than Fourth by looking at the map but it didn't seem it. As we approached the connecting stream to Sixth Lake the view of Vanderwhacker Mtn (or Polaris Mtn?) was a gorgeous backdrop. The stream was really shoked up with lilypads making paddling cumbersome. In Sixth Lake I again stuck to the North while Dan explored the South. I got out at the campsite to check it out and stretch my legs. Dan poked into Seventh Lake which was not much more than a bay of Sixth. Dan then disembarked at the campsite to check it out. We decided to head back to the picnic table on Fourth nad have lunch there which we did. Paddling through the lilypads was getting tiring. The landing zone at the picnic table was in deeper water. Remnants of the old dock were evident nearby. Dan held my canoe as I bumbled myself out with steeping into the deep water. 

Used the new knife to cut of some mettwurst & cheese while admiring the view from the picnic table with "Gooley" carved into it. We then set out and headed back to Third Lake at which we checked out some other campsites and did a bit more fishing with no better luck. Back at camp Dan spotted a leech right at the put-in. That put a damper on any thoughts we had for swimming. Instead a splash bath and wearing our wate soaked shirts would be the respite from the heat. Towards the evening another Hornbeck canoe is spotted headed our way. "Could be Carla" said Dan. But then he spotted the paddle color and knew is was not. A few minutes later Tim, the paddler, came up to talk. We offered to share the lean-to site but he wanted to tent at another site. Not suprisingly, he also declined a trade of a warm 12-Horse for a cold Utica Club. We gave him the best intel we had about the sites we saw. After he left I gave it 50-50 he would be back. Dan set up his tent in the field in front of the lean-to. Hope he sleeps better. I put up the bugnet over my pad which I did not do the previous night. Fortunately only a few mosquitos were around. I did not want to chance it again.

Thursday morning was up earlier than Wed. I made some coffee and skipped breakfast I put some snack stuff in my dry bag. Besides checking out more of the western side of Thurd Lake  we had spotted a benchmark indicator on the topo map so a little side adventure was planned. Using the GPS to get us close, we poked around the rocks looking for any sign. The rocks were covered with moss and other debris so we began to get discouraged. With a final try I moved to another set of rocks and Dan checked out the largest one just above me and quickly exclaimed, "found it". It was just a peg int he rock we could barely see some stamping in it. A digital photo zoomed in made this task easier but still not able to make all of it out clearly. A pin hole was obvious, possible for the the precise placement of the surveyors staff? We chatted about what is must have been like to be a surveyor back in the 18th C and before. Lugging chains and heavy equipment through the dense forests. Those guys were tough.

We made our way around the bays of Third Lake spotting some old sites near the channel to Second Lake. There is a short portage between Second and First Lakes. The beaver dam at the top of the creek was impressive. Raising the water levels considerably. The channel to Grassy got choked in rather quickly. At this point it began to sprinkle a bit. The rain subsided as quickly as it began. Making our way back to Third and to the Carry, we spotted another picnic table on small point. Looks like it would be easy to access from the trail too. A few more carries and we would be back at the cars. Dan had it much easier having brought his yoke. I struggled with the shoulder carry. Glad I experimented with it on this trip before finding out on longer portages. We paerted ways but not before Dan pointed out the old truck in the woods.

I made my way to Cheney Pond. I started down  the access road but quickly reversed as it needed a high clearance vehicle. I loaded up my pack, put the yoke on the canoe and single carried the half mile to the Pond. Much miuch easier with the yoke. A couple had set up camp at the put in with what looked to be a converted mini school bus. I chatted briefly with Bob, he introduced his wife Celeste, They asked about the Hornbeck and told me that the lean-to was unoccupied as far as they knew. With a bit of a tail wind, I paddled to the opposite shore and found some lilypads to block most of the waves where I landed by the beach. 

At the lean-to I read the log book and collected a small amount of wood. I set up my chair and read a paperback I brought for relaxing. The beach has a nice view to the west. Hoping the some of the clouds remain to provide something for the sunset. After dinner, Bob and Celeste paddled their kayaks over the a distant part of the beach. I think they did somne swimming. I thought they would stay for the sunset bu they left well before. The sky did not dissapoint and the clouds enhanced the sunset. After which I went to bed. Glad I put up the bugnet because holy smokes were the skeeters out. reminde me of "feeding time" in the Quetico. The "buzz" was everywhere. Night was cooler than the rest, made for a nice sleep. 

Friday morning I needed to decide what to do. I decided to save the Boreas for a backpacking trip and instead find a water access only lean-to. My option 1 would be Utowana Lake since I could see fromn the road if it was unoccupied. Cheney Pomd was like glass this morning. Just me, the loons and the lifting fog. Quintissential pond paddling. Nothing better. The carry up the car was easy even though it was all uphill. Will use the yoke 100% of the time from now on.

I could see the lean-to was unocuppied fromt he road so I hastened my launch. I knew I could paddle back and get my fishing gear if I desired but I had fished this lake last month. At the lean-to I made camp and just relaxed. A few pontoon boats came by. Looked like some type of tour. A couple kayakers lauched across the way and did some fishing. I finished my book and did some other trip planning. Just relaxing by the lake. 

Saturday I planned on an early start and caught the sunrise as I paddled across. Finished the trip with a  visit to the Museum in Blue Mtn Lake. 

Flooding on the way -Cold River

 

Headed into Cold River country by way of Corey's Rd. Kalie, Jim and Ben also joined me. With the LUVA paperwork out of the way we headed down the trail to the Calkins Brook lean-tos. Jim and Ben were out in front and were soon out of view. I tried to tell myself it is a result of their over 6ft heights and respective stride lengths. In reality, I am just slowing down.

At the junction of the foot trail and horse trail I wondered if they took the wrong trail. Notblong after I did not see any fresh tracks in the mud, so I assumed they took the foot trail. At the nect junction I called out for them since the foot trail intersected the old road as well. No reply. I drew an arrow in the dirt and my name. I figured if they were ahead of us, we would meet them at the lunch lean-to. If they were behind they would see my arrow. 

The old roadway is quick walking. 2 hours after we started, Kalie and I were at Calkins. So were the mosquitoes. I made a smudge fire. A few minutes later Jim and Ben arrived. They had waited for a bit, and then backtracked to the horse trail and eventually saw my arrow. 

With the group reunited, we had lunch and chatted. With the fire out, we set out for the remaining 5 miles to the Cold River. Again Jim and Ben were out in front. I paused at the spring and filled my water bottle. After, the trail got thicker with growth and blowdown. At the next main junction to Latham Pond Jim and Ben were waiting. About a mile later we hit a low area which was flooded. The deepest was over our boots. At least the old roadway made the ground underneath solid and not a mucky mess.

We turned and headed to Cold River #3 which a few others had recently arrived. They were up at CR4 swimming but decided to relocate here. So we went to CR4 to make camp. On our way the others from their party passed us going the other way.

A bit over 11 miles in 5.25 hours. I gathered some wood, and made another smudge fire. It was still rather early but I was tired having gotten up at 3am, and driving 5 hours. I did manage to make it past 9pm before hitting the sack.

Like usual I was up early. Did not sleep as well as I hoped. Ben was also up. Got the fire started and made some coffee. Jim was next to emerge. Kalie likes to sleep in, so we tried to stay quiet. The plans for the day were to day trip to Seward, and possibly Ouluska to dig privy holes.  Jim had wrenched his back so he would head back to Calkins for the night. We would meet him the next morning on our way out.

We packed day bags including shovels and saws and the lean-to books. Ben and I headed out first. Kalie would follow. The trail had considerable blowdown which we would take care of on the return. The Cold River never disappoints along this stretch. We did dig out some drainages aling the way. 

At Seward I went to work on digging a new hole. First attempt I uncovered the buried trash from the old lean-to roof.  Had to start again. The ground is not easy to dig here. The organic material on top is a web of roots, then a rocky layer with large roots. Then sand, and rock. Ben took a turn with the shovel and found even more roots deep in the mineral soil. After a few hours of digging we had enough. Ben jumped into the hole so Kalie could take a photo of the depth.

We rested at the lean-to. Even though it was not very late I opted to save Ouluska for another time. As we rested a group arrived. They had met Ben earlier atvthe trailhead. I saw their entry in the register as heading to Duck Hole and then Shattuck. I told them the lack of campsites at Shattuck now, and mentioned the one right near our lean-to they were welcome to use.

We had some trail work still to do on the way back. Ben and Kalie were out in front moving downed trees and cutting the smaller obstacles. I took care of the larger. We did a great job clearing that section. It needed it.

Back at camp I set up my hammock and made another smudge fire. Kalie received word from Jim via their satellite devices that he was at Calkins and cleared a "metric shit ton" of blowdown. The group from Seward arrived. One in their party had tripped and "face planted". It appeared she may have broken her nose. Yikes. They chose to camp nearby. We would see them often as they came to the river's edge. Also spoke with one of the guys from CR3 when he stopped over to swim. He asked about trail crews, and lean-to work and how to help out financially. I told him we were working with ADK but also told him of a number of organizations including lean2rescue. 

 I do not think I made it past dark before I was in my hammock.

Slept great. Awake very early so tried to stay quiet. Ben was also awake. I quietly packed up and made some coffee. Kalie was up not long after (early for her). We were back on the trail 15 minutes before we planned. Except for the flooded section and the brush,  the trail was in good shape thanks to Jim's work. I again paused at the spring to get water. The bugs were starting to get bad at Calkins even with the fire so we didn't rest super long. It was 6 miles left to the cars starting with a long uphill. We were back to the cars before 1pm. Ben suggested getting milkshakes at Stewarts. That sounded like a fantastic way to end the trip.