Wednesday, April 3, 2024

Three-nights=Three Lean-tos

 Having a four day trip in the middle of a long school break offers me many options. I always have a difficult time trying to make a decision as I seem to try, with futility, to do "everything" on one one trip. I often tell myself during these planning sessions, "just pick something and do the rest on different trips". I had a few lean-tos on my list that either were quite far away on the eastern side of the park or I had orphaned on previous trips. So I decided to use these four days to just "bag lean-tos" and enjoy the spring temperatures. In hindsight, I should have brought my fishing gear if for no other reason but to pass time and assuage any feelings of having missed out on the opportunities.

There was a possibility that Dan would become available towards the end of the trip and he would let me know his destination so I could join him. The weather turning sour later in the week dissuaded him so my final night was just another lean-to on the way home.


On Sunday I took a long drive to the pharaoh lakes region to visit Berrymill Pond, and the final lean-to in this area. The trail is not part of the larger system, so it was orphaned on previous trips. The parking lot was empty except for a single truck near the trail-head. The register did not indicate they were headed in my direction. The trail was less muddy than expected for this time of year. As usual the trail construction closer to the parking area was in much better condition than further in. The trail followed an old roadway for most of the 2 miles to the pond. As it neared a grassy area with a creek running through, the trail detoured around and crossed the outlet of Berrymill twice, once below the falls and again at the top. From here the trail had some snow cover remaining as it was in the shadow of the hills to the South. Soon the trail regained the old roadway. I will need to ask Justin if the grassy area is typically flooded hence the re-route.

As I approached the pond, I could tell this would be a very nice area. The pond itself is almost a series of three ponds with the outlet cascading down a significant drop before meandering to the previously mentioned waterfall. This meant I had climbed up a couple hundred feet in just the last mile. The view of the pond was remarkable. I especially liked the narrows between the last two ponds with the giant stone ledges on either side. I climbed atop the one on the near shore after paddling (in circles) the jon-boat. This is definitely on the list of a place to return in the future.


The next morning I awoke to some frosty ground. The muddy areas on the trail on the way out were a bit stiffer and the hike went quickly. I talked to gentleman at the parking area who was planning on fishing as it was the first day of trout season. He was hoping some of the interior trout ponds would be ice free. I mentioned the main pond at Berrymill still had some ice.

Drove to Taylor Pond where Shannon, Dan and I had spent 4 days a few winter's back and discovered a new lean-to. I would hike in the approx 6 miles enjoying the snowmobile trail without snow. I paused at the first lean-to anticipating lunch, but I was not hungry yet. I noticed a new circular steel fire-pit, the type found in state parks, had been delivered and was next to the large rock fire pit. Not sure why. I continued to the new lean-to, had a late lunch and boiled some water for later. So far I have had very nice weather the two days of hiking and hanging out by the fire. With the clear skies the temps would drop quickly as the sun set. This new spot had plenty of downed trees nearby so firewood collection was easy. 


Another great day and evening with solitude on what is likely a very busy area during the summer. the lake was clearing of ice. but some areas still had significant amounts. I marked the coordinates of the new lean-to so I could share them with Jackson when I return. Another colder night, was just below freezing when I awoke. Some of the shallows in the lake had made some new ice. This would likely be gone by the end of the day. The hike out was crisp, I needed gloves. 


Back at the car I received notice that Dan would be delaying his trip, so I needed to choose a location for my final night. Knowing that the weather was likely to involve snow & rain later tomorrow, I opted for a lean-to along the Racquette River easily accessible and about half way home. I figured this early in the season would be a good time for it before all the canoeists paddled by. At the parking area were two cars. I expected they were just in for the day.

The hike in followed and old road like all the others previously this trip so the hiking was easy. A few wet spots and some lingering ice & snow in the shadowy areas. As I neared the lean-to I spotted two hikers ahead with their dogs. I walked quietly as to not disturb them. they headed straight to the river's edge while I turned up towards the lean-to. On their way back out, they spotted me and stopped to chat. Two local ladies from Tupper Lake. We talked about paddling and the old ski area in Tupper. The dogs were really enjoying each others company, running and chasing each other. After the ladies departed I collected firewood, it was sparse in this area relative to the previous night. The open hemlock and pine woods were nice to walk through. I wandered around a bit, found a spring and dug it out. Very low flow, it will take a while for the sediment to settle.


The sun was shining so I sat in the chair, had a beverage and soaked in the rays. I would spend my time alternating between relaxing and wandering through the woods. Later in the afternoon the spring had settled enough for me to top off my water bottle. South and upstream from here is the infamous Racquette Falls. From the falls it is 30 miles of gentle river for paddling. I read that the river drops 12 feet over that distance.

The night was significantly warmer than the last two. I packed up as soon as I was awake so as to beat the impending rains. I was expecting to get a little wet, but so far the skies looked favorable. I did not rush back to the car trying to enjoy the last few miles of nice hiking before the long drive. The rain and snow started part way home on the drive. I only hiked about 20 miles total over the 4 days, but just being in the warm open woods was nice. Total solitude as well.






Sunday, March 10, 2024

Storm Watch -Remsen Falls

 I have been wanting to check out the trail to Remsen Falls and the associated lean-to for quite a few years. One aborted winter attempt due to deep snow a couple years ago. This weekend seemed like the perfect time. Winter still, so little traffic from Nick's Campground and no snow so the snowmobile trail will be clear. The night before the trip Dan decided to go fishing instead as the weather forecast was not looking pleasant, and Emily informed me that there was a winter storm watch and cautioned me on my trip. I reassured her that there would be a lean-to and the trail is quite close to busy parts of the park so I should be ok. She has learned to trust my judgment when it comes to safety; meaning I do not take unnecessary risks especially on a solo trip.


I planned on leaving early in the AM to ensure i would get to camp and the lean-to before the rain and winds came through. I awoke an hour later than expected, but still early enough. I parked where Dan and I had almost gotten the car stuck in the snow a couple years ago. Signed in at the register and began my almost 7 mile hike to the lean-to. The first few miles were on an old woods road, now a snowmobile trail in winter and part of the Nick's Lake Loop trail. It was easy going and not too muddy. After turning off the loop trail towards the falls, the trail still followed an old roadway for a bit. After it became only a foot trail. Very nice for a few miles and then then more grown in and few markers. The tread was easy enough to follow. A few light sleet showers were the only sounds except for the occasional bird when the sleet ended. The smell of ozone and brief winds hinted at the coming storm. I arrived at the lean-to in under 3 hours with plenty of time to gather dry wood. There was plenty around and previous tenants had left some cut cherry nearby.

I set aside some dry wood inside the lean-to either for tomorrow morning, or for the next visitor and started the fire to get a nice base of coals. I boiled some water to replenish my water bottle later and cooked some bratwurst for lunch. The winds picked up which helped the fire really get going followed by some light sprinkles of rain. The winds and precipitation subsided so I went to gather some more wood. I relaxed, read the shelter log noting how little use this lean-to gets. Saw an entry by Paul D from lean2rescue checking on the condition since the new roof over a decade ago. 

Made some dinner and was all cleaned up before the rain started. It rained all evening and through the night. It must have switched at some point in the early morning as there was dusting of snow when I finally got up in the morning. I lost an hour due to DST, so it was still dark at 6am. I opted to skip the morning fire and just use the stove for coffee.

Packed up and headed down the now wet and sloppy trail. Crossing some of the creeks was a little more sketchy with the swollen water from the rains. Knowing I had dry shoes and socks waiting in the car, I just trudged through instead of trying to find a natural bridge. It was a very pleasant hike out considering I had expected to be hiking out in a snow or rain storm.