Thursday, February 23, 2017

Warm Winter in Wilcox Lake Wild Forest

Dan and I met at the Stewarts Shop in Northville, NY at 10:30am. We would then drive up to the parking area at the end of Hope Falls Rd to access the Wilcox Lake Wild Forest. The plan was to hike into Wilcox Lake, set up base camp and then explore some of the area. We also needed to inventory some of the supplies and take measurements for the other lean-to at Wilcox for the roof repair next weekend. The hike started off easy on a roadway with many tracks going in. Very mild temperatures for winter. 2 or so miles in we came to the next parking area which is used in summer. At this point we realized our shorter access trail would be about the same length had we taken the northern route which would be a groomed snowmobile path. Undeterred we pushed forth. About a half mile later we came to the old parking area and the trail signs which gave the distance to Wilcox as 5.2 miles. From here we would breaking our own trail. So far the trail was the driveway to the private inholding here on the bank of East Stony Creek. Now the trail became a footpath and continued to parallel the creek for a short while. Soon after we entered back into public land, the trail veered away from the creek to go around a large hill. This would be a gentle uphill and then down for about a mile or so until we again reached the creek. At this point the creek was flowing west, and since we were heading upstream we turned east. Crossing a small marshy area we entered into a hemlock grove and noted some cut logs and an area devoid of undergrowth. Likely a campsite in the vicinity. Not far after we decided that barebooting was not the way to go so we put on our snowshoes. We had heard this trail was the more picturesque hike and we were not disappointed.

The trail continued to follow the creek for a couple miles and then turned inland again. It would rise up and away from the creek. At his point we were both feeling tired. A decent break would be needed. We hiked on looking for a log to sit on and never found one, so we just tramped down a spot into the hill and sat on my foam pad. A snack break and looking at the map to see how much farther we had. The suspension bridge over the creek had an established campsite near it, so we could always stop there if needed. At this point it seemed likely. Knowing sunset was around 6pm we decided that we would see how far we could get, but by 5pm we needed to start making camp. The trail headed back down to creek level and it was a short mile to the bridge. Just after the bridge was a significant climb of about 3/4 mile to intersect the snowmobile trail and then another quarter to Wilcox Lake. It was quarter to five and we had a mile to go. We ditched the campsite and pressed on. I was running on adrenaline only at this point. The climb switched back and forth a bit, and wasn't as bad as I anticipated but still tiring. Saw a tree with a lot of bark chewed off of it about 8 feet up. I queried a moose but Dan corrected me to the more likely suspect a porcupine. Once at the snowmobile trail, we turned right and headed downhill to Wilcox Lake. There would be only a little light left by the time we got to our lean-to about a quarter mile down the lake so our first order of business was to collect firewood.

At the lean-to we grabbed the saw, put on our headlamps and went wood collecting. A decent pile was soon gathered. We opened a beer and sat by the fire. A little while later dinner was cooked. As tired as we were, we still stayed up to almost 10pm.

As usual I was the first to arise. I restarted the fire and melted some snow for coffee. My muscles were sore from yesterday. It was good we didn't have to travel today, just enjoy. After breakfast, we collected more wood and took inventory of the roofing supplies. After lunch we decided to go hike across the lake towards New Lake Mtn. The peak was prominent and it looked like a bare are just below it might provide a nice view back to Wilcox Lake. We headed into the woods and towards the ridge which we would then follow up to the open area. A lot of deer sign along the ridge and some oak trees. At the opening, Wilcox Lake was quite visible.

We could see the top of New Lake Mtn from here. The steep rocky section was all that was left. Soon we were at the top standing upon a larger boulder at the summit. Instead of retracing our steps back, we continued North towards New Lake and down the other side of the Mtn. It was steep and the snow was deep. I wrenched my knee on one of the steps down. It made my going slow and painful on the descent. At about 100 ft above New Lake, we held the contour around the Mtn until we were heading South again. Then followed a drainage almost all the way back to Wilcox Lake. It was still earlier than yesterday and we didn't have to collect wood so we were much more relaxed.

The evening ensued in a relaxed fashion. We ate dinner. Watched the stars come out.went to bed a little earlier than last night. We anticipated tonight to get rather cold.while it did get cold, it was warmer than I expected. Since we had pushed so hard the first day to get here, we figured it would be more enjoyable to hike out part way today, make camp and then finish the rest tomorrow. Less miles meant a later start and a relaxed pace on an already broken trail. First a stop at the other lean-to to take measurements and photos for Jim. The trail out was much easier now. We didn't need snowshoes as our track was solid enough to wear boots with microspikes. We were at the suspension bridge in no time, and shedded our last layer as it was another warm day. Looking at the map, the campsite we passed the other day in the hemlock grove seemed a good place to make camp. It would be only a couple miles more to the car in the morning. We arrived around 3 pm, plenty of time to get set up and gather wood. Dan used some of the gathered wood to make us a bench to sit on by the fire. There were two heavily used deer trails here. Dan suggested that some day he should go on a hunt and I could then meet him the next day and help him carry out the venison. The evening of our third day turned to night and we retired to our quarters. I slept soundly in the hammock.

Day 4 would only be a few miles out. After breakfast Dan explored the game trails, and I dismantled the bench and scattered the wood and ashes from our fire. I camoflaged the firepit with some rotten logs. The day was already getting to be warm. the snow turned mushy and we finished the trip back in snowshoes. Back at the car before noon. 4 days and 19 miles.

Saturday, December 31, 2016

Haderondah Hanukah

Festivus III was postponed due to some members not being able to make it. So instead Dan and I opted for a 28 mile loop in the Haderondah Wilderness. Being familiar with all the trails, and the potential snow conditions I knew this was an aggressive itinerary. Fortunately it did allow for multiple shortcuts, and bailouts.

I met Dan at our usual spot and gave him the framed photo I printed of him with the monster pike he caught this summer. The drive was uneventful, and we arrived at the trailhead with temps in the high teens and rising. We knew that freezing rains were likely later in the afternoon. This prompted us to modify our itinerary to do the loop in reverse. This would give us the short day at first with the heavy packs, and perhaps get to the lean-to before the rains. The initial climb up the hill is quite steep and really warmed us up. There were some tracks but we still needed snowshoes. The rains came earlier than expected, but were only on and off. This portion of our trip has many small ups and downs, although it always feels like more ups than downs. The tracks we had been following turned to follow the outlet of Grassy Pond and then we were breaking new trail. The section around Cedar took longer than expected, at one point I thought we might have gone past the turn-off. Checking the compass we were still heading westward, so we were still on target. Moments later the trail to Middle Branch came into view. We started the uphill climb looking for a spot to have a late lunch. We cleaned off a log of its snow and ate some pre-made venison sandwiches. We had a bit over a mile to the lean-to. It went slow as the snow was deep and we were climbing over a ridge. After we descended to the junction, it would be another third of a mile up and over a small rise to the lean-to. Along the way we would keep a lookout for firewood knowing that there would be slim pickins at the campsite. Finally at the lean-to, just over 4 miles and it was past 2pm. The planned 7 mile days ahead would be tough.

We collected firewood and got a nice blaze going. It was quite windy. When the rains started again, it would be blown all the way into the back of the lean-to. A late dinner of smoked polish sausages with peppers and onions. I had not slept well the night before, so I knew I would not be able to stay up too late. Not that I usually do in the woods after dark.

Morning came and Dan smacked the bottom of my sleeping bag to get up. The rains had put out any remnant coals from the fire, so I restarted it from scratch while Dan went to get water.

A hot cereal breakfast and coffee was quick and easy, but we still weren't on the trail until after 10am. We had a little over a mile to the junction with the old jeep road. From there a straight 3.4 miles to our next junction. Dan broke trail most of the way. A few times I would lead but he is in much better shape than I. This road walk seemed to take forever. We were averaging just over 1 mph. We had another late lunch at the junction to the East Pond trail.

This is the section which gets minimal maintenance on a 5 year cycle. This past fall it was cleared so it should be much easier to follow than it was this past spring. I was most worried about the beaver dam and the outlet of little simon pond. These can be tricky in the best of times, but with snowshoes may prove difficult. With just under 3 miles to go, we would be cutting it close. We could always make camp off trail if needed. At 3 pm, we were still not at Little Simon Pond so we started talking about our options. I said to give us 20 minutes to re-assess. I was getting tired and after little simon would be the "big climb". Not something I was looking forward to being this tired already. At little Simon, Dan crossed the outlet first. He helped me make the giant step up. From there we looked at this as a possible place to make camp. A quick look at the map and Dan said, we are so close (it was less than a mile), lets just push it. So we grinded it out, that hill was brutal. We made it to camp after the sun had dropped below the horizon so we had but a few minutes to get firewood before it would get dark. This trip coincided with the new moon, so night was as dark as could be.

With the fire lit, we set up the tent and hammock. Tortelloni and sauce for dinner. The wood we gathered produced some great coals which put out a lot of heat. It was really dark and getting cold. The fire was nice. It was significantly below freezing over night. Our tarps had a layer of ice on them in the morning. The hot coals from the night before were still glowing when i got up. It was breeze to restart the fire. I made breakfast sandwiches and we talked out the plans for the day. I was nervous about continuing on towards the Lost Creek trail after yesterday. At the junction we decided to try it, knowing that we could camp just about anywhere. the plan was to get back to the jeep trail at least. We had about 2 miles to the Lost creek trail, then a bit more than two more along Big Otter lake. After the previous day's slog we took more breaks and had snacks to keep us fueled up. The trail was certainly much more clear than the past spring. Following the cut blowdown and new trail markers made navigation easy. The cold temperatures and the previous rains compacted the snow some making the hiking a bit easier.

The sky was a bit clearer than the previous days, the sun did peak out a few times. I did remember to put on sunscreen all three days. We had lunch at the junction. 2.7 miles back to Middle Branch. Somehow we made really good time all the way back to the next junction, even with the slowdown at the flooded section. We now had our own tracks to follow for just over a mile. We figured to just get back to the lean-to, gather wood before it got dark again. Dropping our packs in the lean-to, we headed across the small inlet to where Dan found most of the wood last time. We would toss large pieces across the stream and then carry them to camp. We started the fire and built a tripod for the cook pot. I took out the candles I had brought and fashioned a menorah in the snow. We acknowledged the 5th night of the festival of lights.

With a big fire going, and the sun set we were sitting in the lean-to talking. Then a strange noise silenced us. We both stood up and looked around the lean-to to see a headlamp in the distance. My first thoughts were it was Chuck B, with a pulk. I had given him our itinerary before we left. It turned out to be a couple of college kids from Cornell. They were at one of their parents cottages nearby and often came to this lean-to. In their sled they dragged was a bag with cut cord wood.

We all shared the lean-to and the big fire. Cooked up some chili, while the two others had leftover prime rib and soup. As it got dark, I noticed a glow across the lake. It appears we were able to see the light from a distant city. It was towards the west, so perhaps Lowville, or Carthage. Could it have been Watertown?

Another cold night. While we were quite warm, our two new camp mates didn't fare as well. They were woefully unprepared for the temperature. I don't think they slept much. The fire restarted easy again. The two guys from Cornell left a little earlier than us. It had snowed more overnight and large flakes were continuing to fall. We hoped the trail would now be compacted enough to bareboot so we lashed our snowshoes to our packs and headed out. We passed by our companions at the cedar pond junction, the hills were long and tiring but at least we didn't have to snowshoe it. My microspikes weregetting clumped, so I took them off. The snow was still coming down providing significant powder on the trail. Easy enough to swish our boots through. We paused for a snack just after the Okara trailhead junction. I think my pack had gained a few pounds of snow. Only a short ways to go. Just as we got to our final turn, we spotted a dog up ahead. He ran back to the ladies that were hiking with them. We said hi, they asked how long we had been out here. "This is day 4", I replied. I was also still calculating in my head our total mileage which would be about 21 miles total. We asked if our car was still in the lot, and if the windows were intact. The last little bit if trail would be the steep drop on which we climbed to start this adventure. Surprisingly, we both made it down without a single spill, a haderondah hanukah miracle.