Tuesday, July 11, 2023

Canoeing in St. Regis

 Day 1 (Wednesday June 28th) I arrived at the launch on Little Clear Pond a few minutes early. This would allow me to change my clothes and get my gear all situated before the predicted rainstorm. The parking area was empty, it likely will not be so when we return Sat AM. Dan arrived a few minutes after I finished getting my gear to the water's edge. All I had left was to change into my water shoes. As Dan readied his gear I gave him the deer shed I found in my woods. I fgigured he would be able to make it into a few nice knife handles. He returned my cooler from last summer. Inside he and Carla had gifted me some freeze-dried goodies they put together. As we finished up a woman and her dogs came by just hiking. The dogs to play in the water. She was fascinated that we were heading into the woods to camp for a few days. So far the expected rains have not appeared.

Asd we set out across the pond (note: Little Clear is a DEC fish Hatchery and thus no fishing or camping is allowed) a few sprinkles of rain made their appearance. Not enough to put on raingear in this warm humid weather. It was about a mile paddle to get to the portage trail. The take-out was a nice sandy area and the trail wide and smooth. We double carried it, leaving our packs about halfway before going back for the canoes. The mosquitoes were fierce in the woods when we stopped for even a second. The put-in was at the end of a long boardwalk which became like a dock jutting out into the creek. As we loaded the canoes, Dan stepped into the muck and went almost waist deep. The paddle from here into the pond was calm. 

As we entered the pond there was a decent headwind.Once on St. regis I made a few casts and trolled a bit as we headed to our campsite.  Our goal was the lean-to site on the western peninsula. With the impending rain, the lean-to would provide a gathering place for us to hang out instead of sitting under our own tarps or laying in our hammocks. I needed to spend the night in this lean-to anyway for my "challenge". This would be #143. So far we have not seen any other people. It would appear we had this entire pond to ourselves. We were also quite ahead of the game in regards to weather. We expected to be paddling in significant rain already. With the weather cooperating, except for the wind, we set out to paddle a bit. I fished as the wind pushed me along a small island though the deep water and eventually to the lee side of the next larger island. No hits, but it was nice and relaxing. The water was quite warm, so any fish would be in the deeper cold areas. Maybe tomorrow I will be able to get a little deeper. We paddled into the stiff wind to get back to the lean-to. But not before we stopped at an old beaver lodge to gather some firewood.

Back at camp, we had a few beverages  (Dan carried in a case) dinner and conversation. Before long it was evening and some fish were popping up to the surface. Dan dropped a fly into the area and landed a whopper; an entire 1.5 inch sunfish! 

While air had been on & off misty all afternoon and evening we so far had avoided significant rain. The wind also kept the nugs away. Great first day!


Day 2 (Thursday) Not surprising I was up before the sun. I tried to fall back asleep and may have stolen a few extra minutes of sleep. I did not feel like I slept that great. I will set up the hammock today and hopefully get a better nights sleep. Dan was also up relatively early. We made coffee and lazed around before having breakfast. We had the entire day to fish and explore since we were not moving camp. We eventaully put the canoes in the water and paddled towards the outlet. From our site it was like a small bay on the western side of the pond. I fished along the way. No luck, bit it was very pretty and a gentle paddle. As we approached the outlet the pond shallowed. There was a bidge over the fish barrier dam; built to maintain the fishery by keeping out unwanted species. We apddled back to camp following the far shore. We paused at the campsite across from us with prominent rock ledge. From here it would be a perfect spot to watch both sunrise and sunset. Nice campsite too.


Back at camp we had lunch and st our chairs near the shore. I fell asleep for a bit and apparently Dan did as well. We set out again to explore. This time the inlets to the North and the campsites along that shore. We also stopped at the de-commisioned site on the island. It was really nice but rather close to ours.The other campsites were inferior to the lean-to and the rock ledge campsite. The inlets did not provide any paddling access nor any cooler water to entice fish. While the fishing was a let down, it was a very nice paddle around the islands. Also a couple of canoes have made their way to the pond, we expect a lot more as we get close to the holiday weekend. 

A couple more beverages at camp and dinner, then some sitting in the chairs near the shore. This lasted until the bugs arrived. A small smudge fire extended our evening only slightly as we made our way to the hammocks with the mosquito netting. Hoping for a better nights sleep.

Day 3 (Friday)

Slept like a champ! That was great. This morning the fog on the lake was thick. Could not see the other shore a quarter mile away. The island was also not visible. It reminded me of the one morning on Lake Superior when we had to navigate by compass across the channel from battle island. As the fog lifted, we could see the water was like glass. 


After coffee we packed a day pack with lunch for our day's exploring. There were still quite a few features on this pond we needed to explore. First was thw small tributary which would empty into a small unnamed pond. The paddle across the pond was quiet with only the sounds of our paddles dripping into the water. As we entered the small connector, it was beautiful the way the sun illuminated the flora growing on the logs. Dan was ahead of me, so the I captured a photo of him backlit by the morning sun. The pond itself was serene. So peaceful with the remnant fog still hovering over the water in the shaded areas not yet awakened by the rising sun. We quietly paddled around the outside edge of the pond. Sadly the camera could not capture the full effect of the fog and sunlight. A boat beer would have to suffice. The campsite tucked away in the far corner looked ok, and would have a fantastic view the downside would be the bugs. There was little air movement in here.



We left the small pond and continued around St Regis to the short carry into Green Pond. The pond was aptly named as the water's green tint was remarkable. We would see the quick drop off into the deep. With no obvious inlet, this was likely spring fed. A tried my best to find any fish in the depths to no avail. There were three portage trails eminating from this small pond; the one we used, one from  Little Clear Pond and the last to Little Long Pond. The campsute on the southern shore was nice. Though being set into the woods would be buggy. This would prove true as the skeeters did eventually find us as we explored. Back into the boats and continuing to paddle around the pond. We would save the portage to Little Long and the rest of the area for another trip. 


We carried back to St Regis and chose a lunch spot on the peninsula under the white pine. This was another closed campsite. The landing was sandy with remnants of turtle shells. The ground ws soft under the pine and prided some shade. A few fisherman were trolling the deep area of the pond between us and the island. After lunch we paddled back across to our campsite where we spent the remainder of our day. We saw a few more paddlers today, but not as many as we expected heading into the holiday weekend. After dinner we paddled out again into the calm waters to watch the red sun set created by the smoke from the Canadian wildfires. We were hoping for some more nice colors in the clouds. It was pretty nonetheless and relaxing to sit in the boat on the water. 


Sitting by the campfire, the lightening bugs made their appearance and soon we headed to our hammocks. Rain is expected tomorrow as we head out.

Day 4 (Saturday) Another fantastic nights sleep in the hammock. No rain overnight so I packed up the dry tarp and the rest of my hammock as soon as I arose. The morning sunrise was searing through the overcast skies and the wildfire smoke filled air. I made an extra large cup of coffee and packed up most of my gear. With the impending storm approaching we wanted to get an early start. The water was again peaceful as we set out in the morning. We paddled slowly to enjoy the last few minutes on the pond. Close to the poratge we ran into Mike (Assistant Forest Ranger). He was very nice and professional inquiring if we needed anything or had any questions.


We double carried again from the boardwalk landing to Little Clear. I used the yoke this time which added a few minutes to my carry. The bugs were terrible at the put in so Dan waited for me out in his boat. The wind was beginning to pick up and not long after we pushed off we were paddling directly into a stiff headwind. Dan had the garbage bag on the back on his canoe, so I stayed a bit behind him in case it blew off. Passed a few boats heading the direction from which we came. Hope their trip is as fun and relaxing as ours. We were certainly fortunate with the weather. 

At the take-out a water steward was their to inspect boats and educate paddlers about invasive species. He gave us each a DEC emblazoned micro-fiber towel to "clean & dry" our boats between waters to mitigate any spread of invasives. We loaded up our boats, had a final beverage before heading home.

Great trip. Looking forward to our next one together.






Friday, June 2, 2023

Memorial Day Weekend - Cold River Country

 


It seems I often go to the Cold River on Memorial Day Weekend. I think the first time was to do the loop with Ian. In the years since I have visited on Memorial Day Weekend for the loop, via Preston Pond, as an out-n-back from CR#3, and a number of variations. This time would be to hike to CR3, then day-trip to Ouluska and deliver brooms to the lean-tos while doing my general cleanup and inspection. There were up to 8 people planning on going, but a few had to cancel. So the crew would be me, Kalie, Shannon, Jim and Jacob. Saturday 10am we met at the Seward lot which was already well past capacity. We parked a bit down the road in front of the long line of cars. Once signed in we were on trail a few minutes past 10.

The start of the hike is generally uphill so it really gets your heart rate going immediately. Our first planned stop is lunch at the Calkins Creek lean-tos about 6 miles away. Like usual we branched off the main trail to take the horse trail. This time Jim was sure to take the correct route. A few muddy spots, but mostly very dry. At the junction we took a short pause before heading down the old roadway. The trail was mostly clear with just a few major blowdowns to content with. We passed the herd path junction, and the Raquette Falls junction and were soon at the lean-tos. It was already getting hot and I needed to fill up my water. I will try to be better on this trip and drink more water. While having lunch two guys came down the trail from the Cold River side. They were doing the loop and climbing the 4 peaks. They had already climbed Seymour and had only 6 miles of the loop plus Seward, Donaldson and Emmons to finish. After talkin they were going to stay at Camp 2, then day hike the 3 peaks and return to camp for an easy last day out. 

We bid them well and set off starting with the big climb. I was going slow already. At least it allowed me time to look around for some of the old trails Bob mentioned. Once we headed downhill, we stopped at the spring for a water fill up. The trail would get brushy further south and then we still had the flooded section to contend with. We paused briefly at the Latham Pond trail. The flooded section is soon to follow. We changed into water shoes and crossed the now longer and deeper flooded trail. The water at least felt good on the feet, except for the few warm spots. Those were kind of gross. About a 1/2 mile left to CR#3.

As we approached I could see the front of my party passing it by. It must be occupied. I stopped to say hi and drop off the first of the brooms. The couple inside was protecting themselves from the skeeters by sitting enclosed in a large bug net. We had expected a lot of black flys, but for the most part they had given way to the mosquitoes. CR#4 was empty so we set up camp. The couple at CR#3 would be leaving the next morning, so we would be able to move over before we start our day trip. It was too hot for a fire, but we built a small one for smudge which worked well.

We had come 11 miles and were tired, at least I was. A few hours of relaxing, dinner, some beers. During which two hikers crossed ther suspension bridge. They were retired LEOs from the Syr area. We invited them to join us and also showed them the satellite campsite just over the rise. They set up their tents in the latter.

I slept great even though it was quite warm. I often forget how well I sleep in the hammock compared to the ground. I was still up before the rest. I had some coffee down by the rocks and waited for the rest to arise. After breakfast we broke down camp and shuttled our gear back to CR#3. Kalie planned on staying for the day and potentially digging the new privy hole while the rest would go with me to Seward and Ouluska lean-tos. A 10.6 mile day with just a day pack would be a lot easier. The trail was generally clear as we did some work on it last year as did the two new maintainers I met. There was still more to do like always. We took a decent break at the Seward lean-to as it was still quite early and left the new broom. The next 2 miles to Ouluska would be the easiset as it mostly follows the river, so nice and flat. Crossing Seward Brook was mostly a rock-hop. Someone had moved one of the boards for the replacement bridge to help. This will wash away with the first major rain storm I am sure. Lunch at Ouluska and then I think I fell asleep for a few minutes.

On the way back I tild the crew I was going to walk slow and will see them at Seward. I was tired. I think it was mostly the heat. I arrived at Seward just a few minutes after the others, and they were taking a break. I continued on ahead. I arrived back at CR#3 about ten minutes before the rest. Kalie had sterted the new privy hole. She got through the hardest part; the first layer of duff. This can be finished later. Another relaxing evening. The view from this spot is my favorite. I mentioned to Jim that every time I visit I get a little more sad each time when I have to leave. I will be back in July.


It was slightly cooler the last night, but comfortably so. We planned on getting on trail by 8am so everyone was up relatively early. After packing up, Kalie headed out early so she sould spend extra time bandaging up her feet after the wet portion. We covered up the starter hole with a downed spruce tree, so hopefully no one leaves a deposit before we finish digging. Before we turned up the horse trail, we checked out the old Shattuck Bridge location and the view up to the conflunce of the Cold River and Moose Creek. At the flooded section, I crossed it with my pack and returned with Jim's water shoes. He loaned them to Jacob so he would not have to go barefoot again.  Jim and I both estimated the length of the growinf beaver pond to be about 100yds. I would cross this 4 times on this trip. 

Continuing up the horse trail and stopping at the spring. The cold water was refreshing. Not long to the top of the saddle, then down to Calkins. A snack/lunch here. It was buggy, really buggy and sun was blazing. 6 miles left which would go quickly on the old road. Jim and Jacob were already changed out of the hiking clothes by the time we arrived at the register. I signed us out and made sure all cars started before I left. We all met up again at the Stewarts in Tupper Lake. Most of us bought milkshakes. A great was to top off another fun trip to the Cold River.