Solo in the West Canadas

Thursday July 24

Arrived at the Pillsbury trailhead just before noon. Ate lunch at the car before setting out. Only two other cars in the lot. Heavy pack with 7 days worth of food. Was able to fit it all in my Ursack XL with a tiny amount of room to spare. About 6 miles to my destination, the Beaver Pond lean-to which Andy & I adopted this year. A nice slow pace would get me there before 3pm. The trail follows Old Military Rd, named after some War of 1812 event I think. Was a jeep rd until the 1970s. Now nature has reclaimed it. The plant and tree growth encroaching on the trail is nothing compared to the erosion from the last few decades of spring run-off. About 1 mile and a half to the first junction with the French Louie Trail, then another three to Cedar Lake, lastly another mile and a half to the lean-to. Taking a slow pace to not overheat and tire myself out. It took 45 minutes to the french louie trail, then another 90 to Cedar Lake. The bridge over the river just downstream from the breached dam had a very nice breeze. I paused a while to take it in. Almost every drainage was dry on the hike in, so I am just about out of water. Hopefully the spring I cleared out earlier this year still has water.

Signed in at the interior register noting some familiar names from earlier this summer. Passing by the old ranger cabin site, I scared up a grouse and she flew off. Appears I have the lake to myself at least for the time being. The first spring along the main trail was not as deep as earlier, but still had plenty of cold water. I drank my fill and then topped off my water bottles. It isn't that far from the lean-to, so I could walk back here if the other spring is dry.

Crossing the bridge between Beaver Pond and Cedar Lake, the boards squeaked. The lean-to just off the trail past the bridge was unoccupied. Dropped my pack and went to the lake to wash up a bit. Was hot today. Even with the slow pace, sweating was unavoidable. Washed out my shirt and will wear it dry. Should keep me a bit cooler too.

Next job is to bring the paddle to the hidden sportspal, check on the spring, and gather some wood. Spring level was low, but still able to fill up. Next visit I will bring a shovel for the lean-to and use it to dig out the spring more. Pleanty of wood farther away from camp, so gathering was easy. Expecting rain tonight so will collect enough to store dry. Made a smudge fire and set up my gear in the lean-to. Occassional breeze across the lake is nice and cooling with the damp shirt. It is drying quickly though. The lake is mostly silent except for the piercing calls of the loons.

Gathered some more wood, should be enough for a few days since it is only needed for cooking and not warmth. After a couple days here, my plans are open. Will need to check on the Colvin Brook lean-to, and clear some more trail. Possibly meet up with the DEC Forester, Jaimie, at West Lake on Tuesday.

Ate the second half of my lunch sandwich for dinner. Then heated up some water for a woods shower. Now just enjoying the quiet of the lake, the feeling of the occassional breeze and the calls of the loons. One is very close by, the other on the other side of the lake. Sky is clear blue, so doubtful a sunset from the bridge will be great. Will go down though, just to watch the end of the day.

note: broom is gone, also need shovel, rake and oakum.

Lunch- Sandwich

Dinner-rest of sandwich

Friday July 25

Up early as usual. Wanted to sleep in, but the sky tempted me with a pink sunrise. The colors gave way quickly but I was now up for good. Made some coffee and prepped ingredients to test one of Chef Corso's recipes. "Spam, salmon and egg brekkie bowl". For his recipe test he likes us to time everything, and and take photos along with other notes. I spent a little extra time frying up the spam to get it a bit crispy. I thought the texture would make it better. The downside is the frying really brings out the saltiness. I also added the salmon on top cold instead of heating it through to get a temperature contrast. Overall the recipe was good, I think it would be better not as a low-carb meal and plate it over some potatoes, or put into a tortilla as a breakfast wrap. Chef Corso put the recipe up on his website with one of my photos: https://outdooreats.com/recipe/spam-smoked-salmon-egg-brekkie-bowl/

Clouds moving in, then the sky became overcast. Breeze increasing. Supposed to rain in the afternoon. I can hear some other birds in the distance. I wonder if they are signally the change in the weather. Should really download that Merlin app Dan uses. As the sky began to get more threatening, I went to gather a bit more wood and top off my water bottles. The breeze is keeping the bugs away. Felt a few drops over at the bridge but so far no real rain. The sun came out a bit, then disappeared. This dance would continue all afternoon. Plan is to do trail work and go to Colvin Brook tomorrow. 

Just before dinner a small shower came through. Not enough to warrant rain gear while outside of the lean-to. Could hear some voices across the bay towards the 1st Cedar Lake lean-to. Hope the clouds clear a little for a nice sunset and maybe bring the temperature down overnight. Just before sunset a couple of guys with dogs were near the bridge, possibly at the campsite. One was yelling to his dog trying to get it under control. This went on for 5+ minutes. Then he was yelling to his friend. Sound really carried over the water. Probably had no idea I was even here.

Saturday July 26

Foggy morning. Temp really dropped overnight making for some very comfortable sleeping. Watching the sun burn through the fog was quite pretty. Very nice tapestry to view with morning coffee.

Plan for today: hike to Colvin Brook lean-to to check on it, clear trail. 6 miles each way. Should be a good day for a hike and a decent workout. After breakfast I packed my day pack with saw, gloves, rain gear, food, water and hygiene kit. While packing I heard a squeak on the bridge. A few minutes later another. Over the next 15 minutes others crossed the bridge. It was then I realized today was the Wakely Dam Ultra Marathon trail race. 36 miles, crazy.

As I hiked north along the NPT I would need to step to the side as runners came by. Was nice to see many still smiling after 12+ miles. I would nod, and they would nod or wave. Oddly as they passed waves of emotion would crash over me. A few times I even began to weep. Not sure what was going on there. I have no description of my emotions, I guess I just neede to release something. This would happen every time a runner would go by me.

I stopped at Cedars #1 and talked to the guys camped there. They are hiking the French Louie Loop, this was their first night. They asked about which sites would be best for their next night based on their mileage. They were also trying their hand at fishing with no luck. It was too warm, and the lkae to shallow here. The trout would all be in the deep holes. All through our conversation more runners would come by. We had to keep re-directing them back to the trail. As I left, I made a giant arrow with sticks to help guide them.

Only had to cut three logs on the way to Sucker Brook trail junction. The trail is super open now between my work the last few years and the DEC chainsaw crew last year. The spring along this stretch was deep enough for me to fill up. The typical muddy spots were all dried up like play-doh. Great conditions for the race today; cool weather and dry trail.

Trail to Colvin Brook is starting to grown in more. will need to do some side cutting next time. Not much blowdown, except for the giants which I cannot take care of with the hand saw. The river was low enough for me to rock hop without needing to wade. According to the shelter log, I missed Marshall by two days. He and two others were the only other entires since my visit last fall. Took photos of the journal to update the lean-to "blog"  https://colvinbrook.blogspot.com/

Should take about 2.5 hours to get back to Cedar Lake taking it slow. 

I stopped again at Cedar #1, this time to read the journal. The other guys have since departed heading counter-clockwise around the lake. Breezy here. Nice! Time to head back to camp, wash up and have a snack. 

While reading after dinner I recalled the stars were out last night. Maybe if tonight is also clear I will head to the beach and lean against a rock to look for meteors.

Sunday July 27

Awoke to a steady rain. Made sleeping in that much easier. Made some coffee and sat in the lean-to day dreaming. Every so often it would seem like the rain was slowing, but this was just a tease as the decrease was immediately followed by a wave of heavy rain. Glad I brough the trail umbrella, it is a great tool for a quick trip to the outhouse or to get water. About 10:30 the rains seemed to be done, glints of sun poking through. Made myself a PB&J as an appetizer before real breakfast. I guess this would be brunch. A group of 8 stopped by, they asked about the 3rd lean-to, colloquially known as "the fishermans lean-to", and whether the trail to it was easy to find. They had hiked all morning from the Pillsbury trailhead in the rain. After I finished answering their questions, they pressed on.

There is a 50% chance this will be my last night. So far this has been a fun test of different recipes and food preparations. Loving the small skillet, makes breakfast enjoyable and when the trout are biting, it will be nice to have. The afternoon and evening turned out to be quite nice. I finished the book I brought. I had forgotten how enjoyable reading at camp can be especially on these solo trips. Had a snack earlier and now onto dinner.

Saw a heron earlier and now some canada geese making a racket. The heron was hanging out over at sunset bridge. Seen a few people and groups, but surprised no NPT thru-hikers. Sitting here on sunset bridge, hopeful. Sky growing a bit more threatening to the west. The heron is enjoyong this area too.

Monday July 28

Another rainstorm rolled through early last night. I was up before the dawn and was able to watch the sunrise from the bridge. The heron was also here, but too shy to have his picture taken. Both Beaver Pond and Cedar Lake were like glass. A loon swam by, quitely. I headed back to camp for some smudge, and coffee. The still air after all the rain, the skeeters will be out in full force. I carried my coffee back to the bridge to watch the sunrise. I took a couple pictures, but mostly just sat and enjoyed the moment. Would have been nice if others were here to share it. Again waves of emotions came over me the same as when the runners passed by.

                                

 Returning to camp, I pushed the log ends closer to the middle in a star shape to keep the coals burning without making the fire too big. I have been using the "star fire" a lot this week. It does a great job of prolonging the fire and maintaining the coal bed. To "fire" it up, just pushing the log ends in a little is all it takes. Also a very stable platform for pots and pans. Perfect setup for the skillet.

 

Long Pond in St. Regis w/Paul

Friday July 18th

A long drive for both of us to St. Regis. Longer for Paul. I would get there early to go claim a site and then return to the launch and pick him up in the canoe. Brought the tandem Bell Morningstar. Short carry to the water, so I doubled it instead of trying to do everything at once. Lot was almost full, not sure how many were on their way in, or just out for the day. Not many signed in at the register. Out on the water I was the only boat visible. Paddling into the wind from the north east was odd. I did my best trimming out the boat with gear, but the bow was still catching a lot of wind. Stayed close to the S. shore for protection and to scout the campsites in case they were needed. Never saw the site closest to the other portage trail and inlet. I think this was the one Dan and I heard all night a few years ago. Sound really travels across the water. I turned the canoe to head to the north shore to campsite #3, which was my first choice. Found it unoccupied. Set up my tent and the GoLite shelter and made lunch. The breeze cut right through the site keeping it mostly bug free. Gathered a bit of wood and relaxed at camp. every so often another canoe would paddle by. I could hear the paddlers comment as they passed, "nice site" and "it has a picnic table" were often heard. Tried to take a nap in the chair. If I did fall asleep it was brief.

Plan was to pick up Paul and the launch around 6pm. I figured about a half hour paddle. In case he was early I would depart at 5pm. With the canoe empty, I tried to kneel in the middle. By now the wind had shifted and I was again paddling into it. With no pad for my knees, it was not comfortable. I found it was ok if I knelt on one, and lay the other leg flat and switched legs every so often. Reminded me of the position that the olympic canoe racers use. Not sure how correct my form was. I was just trying to not be in pain. At the cars, I set up a chair to await Paul's arrival. There was a very weak cell signal which allowed me to get a text from Paul giving me an updated ETA of 6:30 due to major traffic backup in New Paltz apparently.

Paul arrived a little before he expected. Gave him a paddle and pfd. We carried his gear down to the canoe along with a cooler. Another cooler would wait in the car. The lake had since layed down so the paddling was much nicer. Paul paddled aggressively in short bursts, while I maintained a steady relaxed cadence, only switching sides when Paul did.

At camp, I started up the fire as Paul set up his tent. He brought clams from the island for us to grill. With the grill, my large pot, and skillet we cooked up the clams "3 ways". There was definitely a difference in taste between the ones on the grill vs the ones in a pot. We would eat as the clams opened. Stayed up rather late, probably around 10 or 11 by the time we retired.

Saturday July 19th

Clear skies allowed the temperature to drop. The moon was bright. Slept great as expected. While I did wake up at my usual time, I was able to coax myself back to sleep. When I heard Paul moving around, I got up. Started the fire and made coffee for myself (Paul did not want any). Plans for the day:

Breakfast (Bacon, eggs, sourdough toast)

Beer run

Paddle to site #9/portage trail

Climb Long Pond Mountain

Lunch/Beer at summit

Hike/Paddle back to camp

Relax

add more pine needle cushioning for Paul under his tent.

Dinner

Beer

After breakfast and cleanup we prepped for our beer run. The lake was calm so we took the long way around the island. Noted the hornbeck canoes at site #2. Loons were all around the entire paddle. They did not seem to be bothered by us. At the car we loaded up the soft cooler with beer and pork chops and returned to camp. Took a short break at camp while we prepared for our day's main adventure. About a 2 mile paddle, then a 2 mile climb up the mountain with elevation change of around 300+. As we paddled around the bend and through the narrows we noted these sites were more occupied. Except for those passing by, our site was relatively secluded.

At the portage trail, we switched to our hiking boots and donned day packs with lunch and summit beers. There were two other canoes here as well. Note: super deep muck at the take-out. The portage trail to Mountain Pond was very nice. Paul really enjoyed the flora, he would comment often and take photos. After the pond the trail began its climb. Signpost said 1.6 miles to summit. Not long after we started up the well maintained trail the occupants of the other canoes made there way down. They commented it was a nice view from up there. As we climbed I noted how out of shape I was, it was tiring and steeper than expected. Pausing at the false summit I figured we must be getting close considering the elevation we have already gained. Then it hit me, 300 meters not feet. Sheesh, felt stupid and relieved at the same time. Stupid error, but relieved I was not getting tired on a short 300 foot scamper. Still a ways to go. Tough little climb, but I needed it.

Finally at the top, we took some photos. It was bright and sunny. We could see rather far to the South and East. Needed to look at the map to figure out which water bodies we were seeing. An eagle soared overhead and then ducked down behind the trees. Cracked open the beers and lunch. Soon another hiker joined us at the summit. He was a local guy just doing a day paddle &  hike. This is a favorite of his. Cell coverage here, so we checked weather report. As expected tomorrow would be on/off rain with heavier rain at night. The report validated our choice to do this adventure today. 

Down the mounatin was significantly easier on the cardio, but the other leg stabilizer muscles now got a work out. Back at the canoe we switched footwear. Glad the bugs were not bad here as they often are at the portage landings. We used the edge of the landing to enter the canoe to avoid the muck. The other hiker had since caught up with us again and watched to see how we avoided the muck. Success and with an audience! Easy paddle back to camp. Good work out for the day.

Went to gather some more wood. Paul had seen a big dead birch tree so I went and harvested some decent logs from it. We relaxed around the fire with some cold ones from the cooler. Paul did his James Dean impression leaning against the giant pine by the water's edge. We pan fried the pork chops for dinner. They were thn cut, so they cooked quickly. Paul would continually add them to the skillet and we would eat them as they finished. Hoped the sky would stay clear after sunset so we could paddle out and look at the stars. Sadly it did not.

Sunday July 20th

Slept in again. Sky was overcast and threatening. Started the fire and made some coffee. Small showers would come and go all day. Made cheese quesadillas in the skillet, Paul ate leftover pork chops. Many paddlers passed by the site on their way to the launch. Paddling in the rain is not the most enjoyable but neither is sitting around camp in the rain. The GoLite shelter did provide some dry areas for us to sit when the rains picked up. A small leak in the shelter will need to be patched up. Later in the afternoon the clouds lost their battle with the sun and blue skies appeared. We used the opportunity to bring some gear and trash back to the cars and restock on beer. Also grabbed the last of the fresh food from the other cooler. 

Just before sunset, the sky opened up and rain it did. I headed to my tent and did Paul. Loons sereneded us all night. A nice complement to the rain.

Monday July 21st

Up early so we could pack up and dry out tarps etc as much as possible. We both had long drives ahead. Was a smart move yesterday to bring a load to the car already. All our remaining gear now would fit below the gunwales helping to keep the boat stable and balanced. Was a relaxing paddle back to the launch. Very few cars remained in the lot. Paul helped me lift the canoe onto the car. As I finished tying down the canoe and signing out I thought next year Dan Denn and I should come here in earlier June before the water warms and the trout go deep.